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Fluid level checks Citroen Berlingo Multispace 1996 - 2010 Petrol 1.4

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Citroen
Berlingo Multispace
1996 - 2010  | 1.4 Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

1.4 litre petrol engine (pre-September 2002) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
1.6 litre petrol engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
1.6 litre diesel engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake/clutch fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
1.9 litre DW series diesel engine (pre-September 2002) – XUD series diesel similar A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
1.9 litre DW series diesel engine (post- September 2002) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
2.0 litre DW series diesel engine (post- September 2002) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Power steering fluid reservoir E Brake fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery

Engine oil level

1 • Make sure that your vehicle is on level ground.
2 • Check the oil level before the vehicle is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.
HINT: If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

3 Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your vehicle is used.
Engine oil grade:
  Petrol engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40, 10W-40 or 5W-30* to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
  Diesel engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40, 10W-40 or 5W-30* to specification API CD and/or ACEA B3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
* SAE 5W-30 engine oil may only be used in vehicles manufactured from the 2000 model year onward.

Car Care

4 • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the vehicle overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.
5 • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is often brightly coloured for easy identification. Withdraw the dipstick.
Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see Car Care). If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot/Citroën dealer.
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn; on some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration) . Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug.
Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft).
6 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front facing side of the cylinder block.
7 On early 1.4 litre models, the oil filter is of the disposable metal canister type screwed into the front of the cylinder block. However, on later 1.4 and all 1.6 litre models, the oil filter consists of a separate disposable cartridge contained in a plastic housing. The housing is located on the front of the cylinder block adjacent to the radiator hoses (see illustration) . Proceed as follows according to filter type.
Cartridge type oil filter housing location (arrowed) – later models

Metal canister type filter

8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. To ensure that the old filter is completely empty before disposal, puncture the filter dome in at least two places and allow any remaining oil to drain through the punctures and into the container.
Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the canister type oil filter
9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil and dirt from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only – do not use any tools.

Disposable cartridge type filter

11 On these engines, the filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a socket or spanner, slacken and remove the filter cover from above. Be prepared for fluid spillage, and recover the O-ring seal from the cover (see illustrations) .
Slacken and remove the filter cover . . .
. . . and recover the O-ring seal
12 Pull the filter element from the filter cover.
13 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover.
14 Insert the new filter element in to the cover, then apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter cover (see illustrations) .
Fit the new element into the cover . . .
. . . and apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal
15 Refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).

All engines

16 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car. Lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
17 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable). Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.5 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity 3.2 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40, 10W-40 or 5W-30* to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
* SAE 5W-30 engine oil may only be used in vehicles manufactured from the 2000 model year onward.
18 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.
19 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
20 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot/Citroën dealer.
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn; on some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration) . Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug.
Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft).
6 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front facing side of the cylinder block.
7 On early 1.4 litre models, the oil filter is of the disposable metal canister type screwed into the front of the cylinder block. However, on later 1.4 and all 1.6 litre models, the oil filter consists of a separate disposable cartridge contained in a plastic housing. The housing is located on the front of the cylinder block adjacent to the radiator hoses (see illustration) . Proceed as follows according to filter type.
Cartridge type oil filter housing location (arrowed) – later models

Metal canister type filter

8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. To ensure that the old filter is completely empty before disposal, puncture the filter dome in at least two places and allow any remaining oil to drain through the punctures and into the container.
Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the canister type oil filter
9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil and dirt from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only – do not use any tools.

Disposable cartridge type filter

11 On these engines, the filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a socket or spanner, slacken and remove the filter cover from above. Be prepared for fluid spillage, and recover the O-ring seal from the cover (see illustrations) .
Slacken and remove the filter cover . . .
. . . and recover the O-ring seal
12 Pull the filter element from the filter cover.
13 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover.
14 Insert the new filter element in to the cover, then apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter cover (see illustrations) .
Fit the new element into the cover . . .
. . . and apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal
15 Refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).

All engines

16 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car. Lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
17 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable). Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.5 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity 3.2 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40, 10W-40 or 5W-30* to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
* SAE 5W-30 engine oil may only be used in vehicles manufactured from the 2000 model year onward.
18 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.
19 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
20 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.

Coolant level

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

6 • Adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
7 • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.
The coolant level varies with engine temperature. On pre-September 2002 petrol models, the level is checked in the expansion tank, which is built into the right-hand side of the radiator. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks.
On pre-September 2002 diesel models, the expansion tank is located above the radiator, and the level can only be checked by removing the expansion tank cap (see step 4). When the engine is cold, the level is correct when it is just below the MAXI mark indicated on the side of the tank.
On all post-September 2002 petrol and diesel models, the level is checked in the expansion tank located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks indicated on the side of the tank.
Unscrew the expansion tank filler cap
Add a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant level is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

1 Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

2 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then push the cap down, turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and lift it off.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the lower left-hand side of the radiator. On early models, loosen the drain plug (there is no need to remove it completely) and allow the coolant to drain into the container. On later models a drain plug is not provided, so it will be necessary to disconnect the radiator bottom hose to allow the coolant to drain.
4 To assist draining, open the cooling system bleed screws. These are located in the heater matrix outlet hose union (to improve access, it may be located in an extension hose), on the engine compartment bulkhead, and on the thermostat housing. On some models, there may also be a bleed screw in the top left-hand end of the radiator (see illustrations) .
Heater matrix bleed screw (arrowed) . . .
. . . thermostat housing bleed screw (arrowed) . . .
. . . and radiator bleed screw (arrowed)
5 When the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below the cylinder block drain plug located at the front left-hand side of the cylinder block.
6 Remove the drain plug, and allow the coolant to drain into the container.
7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.
8 Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs on completion of draining. Also refit the radiator bottom hose (later models) if the system is not to be flushed.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
10 The radiator should be flushed separately from the engine, to avoid excess contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, first tighten the radiator drain plug, and the radiator bleed screw, where applicable.
12 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
13 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
14 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

15 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder block drain plug, and tighten the cooling system bleed screws.
16 Remove the thermostat, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover.
18 When flushing is complete, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.
17 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub-Section). Also check that the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs are in place and tight.
Coolant quantity:
  Pre-September 2002 models:
    Without air conditioning 6.5 litres
    With air conditioning 7.0 litres
  September 2002 models onward 8.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
20 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
21 Open all the cooling system bleed screws (see paragraph 3).
22 Some of the cooling system hoses are positioned at a higher level than the top of the radiator expansion tank. It is therefore necessary to use a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Peugeot/Citroën dealers use a special header tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see Haynes Hint) .
HINT: Cut the bottom off an old antifreeze container to make a ‘header tank’ for use when refilling the cooling system. The seal at the point arrowed must be as airtight as possible.
23 Fit the ‘header tank’ to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed screws in turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and watch the next bleed screw in the system. Repeat the procedure until the coolant is emerging from the highest bleed screw in the cooling system and all bleed screws are securely tightened.
24 Continue to fill the cooling system until bubbles stop appearing in the expansion tank. Help to bleed the air from the system by repeatedly squeezing the radiator bottom hose.
25 When no more bubbles appear, ensure the header tank is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant) then start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in and out TWICE, then when the fan has stopped for the second time, switch the engine off.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
26 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the ‘header tank’.
27 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level. Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap.

Antifreeze mixture

28 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
29 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

1 Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

2 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then push the cap down, turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and lift it off.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the lower left-hand side of the radiator. On early models, loosen the drain plug (there is no need to remove it completely) and allow the coolant to drain into the container. On later models a drain plug is not provided, so it will be necessary to disconnect the radiator bottom hose to allow the coolant to drain.
4 To assist draining, open the cooling system bleed screws. These are located in the heater matrix outlet hose union (to improve access, it may be located in an extension hose), on the engine compartment bulkhead, and on the thermostat housing. On some models, there may also be a bleed screw in the top left-hand end of the radiator (see illustrations) .
Heater matrix bleed screw (arrowed) . . .
. . . thermostat housing bleed screw (arrowed) . . .
. . . and radiator bleed screw (arrowed)
5 When the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below the cylinder block drain plug located at the front left-hand side of the cylinder block.
6 Remove the drain plug, and allow the coolant to drain into the container.
7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.
8 Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs on completion of draining. Also refit the radiator bottom hose (later models) if the system is not to be flushed.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
10 The radiator should be flushed separately from the engine, to avoid excess contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, first tighten the radiator drain plug, and the radiator bleed screw, where applicable.
12 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
13 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
14 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

15 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder block drain plug, and tighten the cooling system bleed screws.
16 Remove the thermostat, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover.
18 When flushing is complete, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.
17 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub-Section). Also check that the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs are in place and tight.
Coolant quantity:
  Pre-September 2002 models:
    Without air conditioning 6.5 litres
    With air conditioning 7.0 litres
  September 2002 models onward 8.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
20 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
21 Open all the cooling system bleed screws (see paragraph 3).
22 Some of the cooling system hoses are positioned at a higher level than the top of the radiator expansion tank. It is therefore necessary to use a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Peugeot/Citroën dealers use a special header tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see Haynes Hint) .
HINT: Cut the bottom off an old antifreeze container to make a ‘header tank’ for use when refilling the cooling system. The seal at the point arrowed must be as airtight as possible.
23 Fit the ‘header tank’ to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed screws in turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and watch the next bleed screw in the system. Repeat the procedure until the coolant is emerging from the highest bleed screw in the cooling system and all bleed screws are securely tightened.
24 Continue to fill the cooling system until bubbles stop appearing in the expansion tank. Help to bleed the air from the system by repeatedly squeezing the radiator bottom hose.
25 When no more bubbles appear, ensure the header tank is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant) then start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in and out TWICE, then when the fan has stopped for the second time, switch the engine off.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
26 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the ‘header tank’.
27 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level. Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap.

Antifreeze mixture

28 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
29 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Screen washer fluid level

8 Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather.
Caution: On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system – this could discolour or damage paintwork.
The washer fluid reservoir is located at the front right-hand side of the engine compartment. To check the fluid level, open the cap and look down the filler neck.
If topping-up is necessary, add water and a screenwash additive in the quantities recommended on the bottle. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.
To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, then depress the locking clip at the base of the mounting block.
Move the blade down the arm to disengage the mounting block, then slide the blade from the arm. Don’t forget to check the rear wiper blade(s) as well (where applicable).

Power steering fluid level

9 • Park the vehicle on level ground.
10 • Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.
11 • The engine should be turned off.
HINT: For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Safety first!

12 • The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.
On pre - September 2002 models, the power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. The fluid level should be checked with the engine stopped. A translucent reservoir is fitted, with MAX and MIN markings on the reservoir.
The fluid level should be between the MAX and MIN marks. If topping-up is necessary, and before removing the cap, wipe the surrounding area so that dirt does not enter the reservoir.
Unscrew the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the cap as it is removed. Top up the fluid level to the MAX mark, using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill the reservoir), then refit and tighten the filler cap.
d On post-September 2002 models, the power steering fluid reservoir is integral with the power steering pump, located at the front of the engine. With the engine stopped, wipe clean the area around the reservoir filler neck, and unscrew the filler cap from the reservoir.
Wipe all fluid from the cap dipstick with a clean rag. Refit the filler cap, then remove it again and note the fluid level on the dipstick. When the engine is cold the fluid level should be between the lower (ADD) mark and the middle (C) mark on the dipstick. If the engine is warm, the fluid level may be up to the upper (H) mark.
If the fluid level is on or below the lower (ADD) mark, top-up the fluid level to the middle (C) mark, using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill). When the level is correct, securely refit the filler cap.
Power steering fluid ESSO ATF D or TOTAL FLUIDE AT42

Brake fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.
Warning: Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first!

13 • If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.
14 • If a leak is suspected, the vehicle should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located on the front of the vacuum servo unit in the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid.
Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only DOT 4 fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely and wipe off any spilt fluid.
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