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Fluid level checks Citroen C2 2003 - 2010 Diesel 1.4 HDi

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Citroen C2 2003 - 2010  | 1.4 HDi Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

1.1 and 1.4 litre petrol (1.6 litre similar) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery
1.4 litre diesel A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery

Engine oil level

1 • Make sure that the car is on level ground.
2 • Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.
HINT: If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

3 Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used.
Engine oil grade:
  Petrol engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40 or 10W-40 to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
  Diesel engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W-40 to specification API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3: ESSO ULTRA DIESEL or TOTAL QUARTZ DIESEL 7000

Car care

4 • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil.
5 • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is often brightly coloured for easy identification. Withdraw the dipstick.
Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.5 litres of oil (petrol engines) or 1.8 litres of oil (diesel engines) will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see Car Care). If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and any impurities suspended in the oil will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point. Where fitted, release the screws and remove the engine undershield.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn, position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see illustration) . If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Unscrew the sump drain plug
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to 16 Nm (12 Ibf ft).
6 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located in a housing on the front of the cylinder block.
7 Release the diesel hand priming pump from its brackets at the right-hand end of the air cleaner housing.
8 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the air inlet hose from the turbocharger (see illustration) .
Slacken the clip (arrowed) and disconnect the air inlet hose from the turbocharger
9 Disconnect the air mass meter wiring connector then undo the screw securing the air mass meter to the air inlet duct (see illustration) .
Disconnect the air mass meter wiring connector (A) then undo the retaining screw (B)
10 Undo the two screws securing the air cleaner housing to the cylinder head cover (see illustration) .
Undo the two air cleaner housing screws (arrowed)
11 Disconnect the breather hose from the cylinder head cover, then lift the air cleaner assembly upwards to disengage the rear mounting lugs from the mounting rubbers.
12 Reach behind the air cleaner assembly, release the clip and disconnect the air inlet hose from the base of the housing.
13 Withdraw the air cleaner assembly from the engine, disconnecting any wiring plugs or hose clips as necessary as the unit is withdrawn.
14 Remove the air deflector by turning the plastic retainer through 90°. Withdraw the air deflector from the front of the air inlet ducting (see illustration) .
Remove the air deflector by turning the plastic retainer (arrowed) through 90°
15 Pull out the centre of the plastic expansion rivet securing the air inlet ducting to the front panel, then pull out the entire rivet (see illustration) .
Pull out the centre of the plastic expansion rivet (arrowed) then pull out the entire rivet
16 Lift the front of the inlet ducting upward to release the mounting lug from the front of the battery box. Manipulate the rear of the inlet ducting out from under the fuel filter and remove the ducting from the car. For improved clearance, undo the fuel filter retaining screw and lift the filter from its mounting bracket slightly.
17 Using a socket or spanner, unscrew the oil filter housing cover and withdraw the cover complete with the filter element (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the oil filter housing cover . . .
. . . and withdraw the cover complete with the filter element
18 Pull the filter element out of the cover, then remove the cover O-ring seal (see illustration) .
Remove the cover O-ring seal
19 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter housing and cover.
20 Locate the new filter element into the filter housing, ensuring that the non-return valve on the base of the filter engages with the corresponding orifice in the housing (see illustrations) .
Ensure that the non-return valve (arrowed) on the base of the filter . . .
. . . engages with the corresponding orifice (arrowed) in the housing
21 Apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter housing cover.
22 Refit the cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
23 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
24 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the top of the engine. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.8 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity 3.8 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W-40 to specification API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3: ESSO ULTRA DIESEL or TOTAL QUARTZ DIESEL 7000
25 Refit the air cleaner air intake ducts.
26 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (where fitted) before the pressure builds-up.
27 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
28 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and any impurities suspended in the oil will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point. Where fitted, release the screws and remove the engine undershield.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn, position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see illustration) . If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Unscrew the sump drain plug
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to 16 Nm (12 Ibf ft).
6 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located in a housing on the front of the cylinder block.
7 Release the diesel hand priming pump from its brackets at the right-hand end of the air cleaner housing.
8 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the air inlet hose from the turbocharger (see illustration) .
Slacken the clip (arrowed) and disconnect the air inlet hose from the turbocharger
9 Disconnect the air mass meter wiring connector then undo the screw securing the air mass meter to the air inlet duct (see illustration) .
Disconnect the air mass meter wiring connector (A) then undo the retaining screw (B)
10 Undo the two screws securing the air cleaner housing to the cylinder head cover (see illustration) .
Undo the two air cleaner housing screws (arrowed)
11 Disconnect the breather hose from the cylinder head cover, then lift the air cleaner assembly upwards to disengage the rear mounting lugs from the mounting rubbers.
12 Reach behind the air cleaner assembly, release the clip and disconnect the air inlet hose from the base of the housing.
13 Withdraw the air cleaner assembly from the engine, disconnecting any wiring plugs or hose clips as necessary as the unit is withdrawn.
14 Remove the air deflector by turning the plastic retainer through 90°. Withdraw the air deflector from the front of the air inlet ducting (see illustration) .
Remove the air deflector by turning the plastic retainer (arrowed) through 90°
15 Pull out the centre of the plastic expansion rivet securing the air inlet ducting to the front panel, then pull out the entire rivet (see illustration) .
Pull out the centre of the plastic expansion rivet (arrowed) then pull out the entire rivet
16 Lift the front of the inlet ducting upward to release the mounting lug from the front of the battery box. Manipulate the rear of the inlet ducting out from under the fuel filter and remove the ducting from the car. For improved clearance, undo the fuel filter retaining screw and lift the filter from its mounting bracket slightly.
17 Using a socket or spanner, unscrew the oil filter housing cover and withdraw the cover complete with the filter element (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the oil filter housing cover . . .
. . . and withdraw the cover complete with the filter element
18 Pull the filter element out of the cover, then remove the cover O-ring seal (see illustration) .
Remove the cover O-ring seal
19 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter housing and cover.
20 Locate the new filter element into the filter housing, ensuring that the non-return valve on the base of the filter engages with the corresponding orifice in the housing (see illustrations) .
Ensure that the non-return valve (arrowed) on the base of the filter . . .
. . . engages with the corresponding orifice (arrowed) in the housing
21 Apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter housing cover.
22 Refit the cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
23 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
24 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the top of the engine. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.8 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity 3.8 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W-40 to specification API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3: ESSO ULTRA DIESEL or TOTAL QUARTZ DIESEL 7000
25 Refit the air cleaner air intake ducts.
26 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (where fitted) before the pressure builds-up.
27 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
28 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

6 • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
7 • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
The coolant level varies with engine temperature. The level is checked in the expansion tank, which is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAXI and MIN marks.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold then turn the expansion tank cap slowly anti-clockwise, and pause until any pressure remaining in the system is released. Unscrew the cap and lift off.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant level is up to the MAXI level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure. Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew the expansion tank filler cap.
2 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield – where fitted.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator lower hose outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator.
4 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator, then allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustration) .
Squeeze together the tabs to release the hose retaining clip
5 To assist draining, unscrew the cooling system bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union on the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration) .
Undo the heater outlet hose union bleed screw cap (arrowed)
6 To drain the engine, pull out the clip and remove the plug located in the coolant manifold at the rear of the cylinder block (see illustrations) . The plug must be refitted with a new clip and O-ring.
Prise out the retaining clip . . .
. . . and pull out the drain plug
7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.
8 Refit the radiator hose and secure it with the hose clamp.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
10 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, disconnect the top hose and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
12 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
13 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

14 To flush the engine, first refit the plug located in the coolant manifold at the rear of the cylinder block, and tighten the cooling system bleed screw.
15 Remove the thermostat.
16 With the bottom hose disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the thermostat housing aperture. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
17 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses .

Cooling system filling

18 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub-Section).
Coolant quantity 6.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
19 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
20 Open the cooling system bleed screw.
21 Citroën recommend the use of a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Citroën dealers use a special header tank which screws onto the expansion tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable 1.0 litre bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see illustration) .
Use a 1.0 litre plastic bottle as a header tank
22 Fit the ‘header tank’ to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from the bleed screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the screw, tighten the screw.
23 Ensure that the ‘header tank’ is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant). Start the engine, and run it at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in, and then cuts out. Stop the engine.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
24 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the ‘header tank’.
25 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level as described in Weekly checks . Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap. Where removed, refit the engine undershield.

Antifreeze mixture

26 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
27 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
28 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
29 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
30 Do not use engine antifreeze in the washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew the expansion tank filler cap.
2 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield – where fitted.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator lower hose outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator.
4 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator, then allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustration) .
Squeeze together the tabs to release the hose retaining clip
5 To assist draining, unscrew the cooling system bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union on the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration) .
Undo the heater outlet hose union bleed screw cap (arrowed)
6 To drain the engine, pull out the clip and remove the plug located in the coolant manifold at the rear of the cylinder block (see illustrations) . The plug must be refitted with a new clip and O-ring.
Prise out the retaining clip . . .
. . . and pull out the drain plug
7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.
8 Refit the radiator hose and secure it with the hose clamp.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
10 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, disconnect the top hose and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
12 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
13 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

14 To flush the engine, first refit the plug located in the coolant manifold at the rear of the cylinder block, and tighten the cooling system bleed screw.
15 Remove the thermostat.
16 With the bottom hose disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the thermostat housing aperture. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
17 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses .

Cooling system filling

18 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub-Section).
Coolant quantity 6.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
19 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
20 Open the cooling system bleed screw.
21 Citroën recommend the use of a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Citroën dealers use a special header tank which screws onto the expansion tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable 1.0 litre bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see illustration) .
Use a 1.0 litre plastic bottle as a header tank
22 Fit the ‘header tank’ to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from the bleed screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the screw, tighten the screw.
23 Ensure that the ‘header tank’ is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant). Start the engine, and run it at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in, and then cuts out. Stop the engine.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
24 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the ‘header tank’.
25 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level as described in Weekly checks . Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap. Where removed, refit the engine undershield.

Antifreeze mixture

26 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
27 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
28 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
29 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
30 Do not use engine antifreeze in the washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Washer fluid level

8 • Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system – this may damage the paintwork.
The washer fluid reservoir is located at the front right-hand side of the engine compartment. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Brake and clutch fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.
Warning: Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first!

9 • If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Note: On later models, it is possible to set the wiper blades to their vertical (maintenance) position by first switching the ignition on and off, then within one minute move the wiper control stalk. To return the blades to their normal position, switch the ignition on and move the wiper control stalk.
Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.
On front wipers, move the blade down the arm to disengage the mounting block, then slide the blade from the arm.
To remove the rear wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, then unclip from the arm.
10 • If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located on the front of the vacuum servo unit in the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap.
Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only DOT 4 fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely and wipe off any spilt fluid.
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