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Fluid level checks Citroen C2 2003 - 2010 Petrol 1.6

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Citroen C2 2003 - 2010  | 1.6 Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

1.1 and 1.4 litre petrol (1.6 litre similar) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery
1.4 litre diesel A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery

Engine oil level

1 • Make sure that the car is on level ground.
2 • Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.
HINT: If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

3 Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used.
Engine oil grade:
  Petrol engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40 or 10W-40 to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
  Diesel engines Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W-40 to specification API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3: ESSO ULTRA DIESEL or TOTAL QUARTZ DIESEL 7000

Car care

4 • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil.
5 • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is often brightly coloured for easy identification. Withdraw the dipstick.
Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.5 litres of oil (petrol engines) or 1.8 litres of oil (diesel engines) will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see Car Care). If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Citroën dealer.
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and any impurities suspended in the oil will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield, where fitted.
4 Some engines have a metal guard plate bolted to the sump directly over the drain plug (see illustration) . If a long square-section wrench is available, it is just possible to remove the drain plug through the aperture in the guard plate. Alternatively, undo the retaining bolts and remove the guard plate. To further improve access to the drain plug, undo the two bolts and remove the subframe bracing strut.
Metal guard plate (arrowed) located over the sump drain plug on certain models
5 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration) . Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
6 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
7 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug, tightening it to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft). Where applicable, refit the guard plate and subframe bracing strut and tighten the retaining bolts securely.
8 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block.
9 On these engines, the filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a ratchet, extension bar and socket, slacken and remove the filter cover from above. Be prepared for fluid spillage as the filter and cover is withdrawn (see illustrations) .
Slacken and remove the filter cover . . .
. . . then remove the filter from the cover
10 Pull the filter element from the filter cover and remove the O-ring from the cover (see illustration) .
Remove the O-ring seal from the cover
11 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover and fit the new O-ring seal to the clean cover (see illustration) .
Fit new O-ring seal
12 Insert the new filter element in to the cover, then apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter cover (see illustrations) .
Fit the new element into the cover . . .
. . . and apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal
13 Refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
14 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
15 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity:
  1.1 litre (TU31) and 1.4 litre (TU3) engines 3.25 litres
  1.4 litre (ET3) engines 3.75 litres
  1.6 litre (TU5) engines 3.25 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40 or 10W-40 to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
16 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.
17 Refit the engine undershield (where applicable), and secure it in place with the screw fasteners.
18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Citroën dealer.
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and any impurities suspended in the oil will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield, where fitted.
4 Some engines have a metal guard plate bolted to the sump directly over the drain plug (see illustration) . If a long square-section wrench is available, it is just possible to remove the drain plug through the aperture in the guard plate. Alternatively, undo the retaining bolts and remove the guard plate. To further improve access to the drain plug, undo the two bolts and remove the subframe bracing strut.
Metal guard plate (arrowed) located over the sump drain plug on certain models
5 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration) . Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint) . Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
6 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
7 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug, tightening it to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft). Where applicable, refit the guard plate and subframe bracing strut and tighten the retaining bolts securely.
8 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block.
9 On these engines, the filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a ratchet, extension bar and socket, slacken and remove the filter cover from above. Be prepared for fluid spillage as the filter and cover is withdrawn (see illustrations) .
Slacken and remove the filter cover . . .
. . . then remove the filter from the cover
10 Pull the filter element from the filter cover and remove the O-ring from the cover (see illustration) .
Remove the O-ring seal from the cover
11 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover and fit the new O-ring seal to the clean cover (see illustration) .
Fit new O-ring seal
12 Insert the new filter element in to the cover, then apply a little clean engine oil to the new O-ring seal, and fit it to the filter cover (see illustrations) .
Fit the new element into the cover . . .
. . . and apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal
13 Refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
14 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
15 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity:
  1.1 litre (TU31) and 1.4 litre (TU3) engines 3.25 litres
  1.4 litre (ET3) engines 3.75 litres
  1.6 litre (TU5) engines 3.25 litres
Engine oil grade Synthetic or semi-synthetic multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W-40 or 10W-40 to specification API SH/SJ and/or ACEA A3: ESSO ULTRA/ULTRON or TOTAL QUARTZ
16 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.
17 Refit the engine undershield (where applicable), and secure it in place with the screw fasteners.
18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely. Do not discard the old filter with domestic household waste. The facility for waste oil disposal provided by many local council refuse tips generally has a filter receptacle alongside.

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

6 • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
7 • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
The coolant level varies with engine temperature. The level is checked in the expansion tank, which is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAXI and MIN marks.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold then turn the expansion tank cap slowly anti-clockwise, and pause until any pressure remaining in the system is released. Unscrew the cap and lift off.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant level is up to the MAXI level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure. Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew the expansion tank filler cap.
2 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield – where fitted.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator.
4 Release the retaining clamp and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator, then allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustration) .
Release the retaining clamp and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator
5 In order to access the bleed screw on the heater matrix outlet union, the air cleaner assembly must be removed. Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner lid to the throttle housing (see illustration) .
Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner lid to the throttle housing
6 Depress the sides of the quick-release fitting and detach the engine breather hose from the air cleaner lid (see illustration) .
Depress the sides of the quick-release fitting and detach the engine breather hose from the air cleaner lid
7 Disconnect the plastic air inlet hose from the inlet duct or resonator at the front of the engine compartment, or from the base of the air cleaner assembly, according to model (see illustration) .
Disconnect the plastic air inlet hose from the inlet duct or resonator
8 Release the plastic retainer securing the air cleaner to the support bracket by turning it through 90° (see illustration) .
Turn the plastic retainer through 90° to release it
9 Detach the air cleaner lid from the throttle housing, while at the same time lifting the air cleaner assembly upwards to release the lower mounting. Slide the unit sideways slightly and withdraw it from the engine compartment (see illustrations) . Recover the throttle housing sealing ring from the air cleaner lid.
Detach the air cleaner lid from the throttle housing . . .
. . . then lift the air cleaner assembly upwards to release the lower mounting
10 To assist draining, remove the cooling system bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union on the engine compartment bulkhead and the bleed screw and sealing washer from the coolant housing on the left-hand end of the cylinder head (see illustrations) .
Undo the bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union (arrowed) . . .
. . . and the bleed screw and sealing washer (arrowed) from the coolant housing - 1.4 litre (TU3) shown
11 Refit the radiator hose and secure it with the hose clamp.

Cooling system flushing

12 If the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
13 The radiator should be flushed separately from the engine, to avoid excess contamination.

Radiator flushing

14 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
15 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
16 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

17 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat.
18 With the bottom hose disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the coolant housing. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
19 When flushing is complete, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.

Cooling system filling

20 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub- Section).
Coolant quantity 6.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Remove the cooling system bleed screws.
23 Citroën recommend the use of a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Citroën dealers use a special header tank which screws onto the expansion tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable 1.0 litre bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see illustration) .
Use a 1.0 litre plastic bottle as a header tank
24 Fit the header tank to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system whilst observing the bleed holes. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed holes in turn, starting with the heater matrix hose. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the heater matrix hose outlet, securely refit the cap/screw (as applicable) then watch the bleed hole on the coolant housing. Once coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the housing hole, refit the bleed screw and sealing washer and tighten securely.
25 Refit the air cleaner assembly.
26 Continue to fill the cooling system until bubbles stop appearing in the expansion tank. Help to bleed the air from the system by repeatedly squeezing the radiator bottom hose.
27 When no more bubbles appear, ensure the header tank is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant) then start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in and out TWICE, then when the fan has stopped for the second time, switch the engine off.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
28 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the header tank. Wash off any spilt coolant with cold water.
29 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level. Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap. Where removed, refit the engine undershield.

Antifreeze mixture

30 The cooling system is initially ‘filled-for-life’, but any other brand of antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
31 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
32 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
33 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
34 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew the expansion tank filler cap.
2 Undo the screws and remove the engine undershield – where fitted.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator.
4 Release the retaining clamp and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator, then allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustration) .
Release the retaining clamp and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator
5 In order to access the bleed screw on the heater matrix outlet union, the air cleaner assembly must be removed. Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner lid to the throttle housing (see illustration) .
Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner lid to the throttle housing
6 Depress the sides of the quick-release fitting and detach the engine breather hose from the air cleaner lid (see illustration) .
Depress the sides of the quick-release fitting and detach the engine breather hose from the air cleaner lid
7 Disconnect the plastic air inlet hose from the inlet duct or resonator at the front of the engine compartment, or from the base of the air cleaner assembly, according to model (see illustration) .
Disconnect the plastic air inlet hose from the inlet duct or resonator
8 Release the plastic retainer securing the air cleaner to the support bracket by turning it through 90° (see illustration) .
Turn the plastic retainer through 90° to release it
9 Detach the air cleaner lid from the throttle housing, while at the same time lifting the air cleaner assembly upwards to release the lower mounting. Slide the unit sideways slightly and withdraw it from the engine compartment (see illustrations) . Recover the throttle housing sealing ring from the air cleaner lid.
Detach the air cleaner lid from the throttle housing . . .
. . . then lift the air cleaner assembly upwards to release the lower mounting
10 To assist draining, remove the cooling system bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union on the engine compartment bulkhead and the bleed screw and sealing washer from the coolant housing on the left-hand end of the cylinder head (see illustrations) .
Undo the bleed screw from the heater matrix outlet hose union (arrowed) . . .
. . . and the bleed screw and sealing washer (arrowed) from the coolant housing - 1.4 litre (TU3) shown
11 Refit the radiator hose and secure it with the hose clamp.

Cooling system flushing

12 If the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
13 The radiator should be flushed separately from the engine, to avoid excess contamination.

Radiator flushing

14 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
15 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
16 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

17 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat.
18 With the bottom hose disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the coolant housing. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
19 When flushing is complete, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.

Cooling system filling

20 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub- Section).
Coolant quantity 6.0 litres
Antifreeze type Mixture of monoethylene glycol based antifreeze (PROCOR TM 108, GLYSANTIN G33 or REVKOGEL 2000) and clean de-ionised water
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Remove the cooling system bleed screws.
23 Citroën recommend the use of a ‘header tank’ when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Citroën dealers use a special header tank which screws onto the expansion tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable 1.0 litre bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see illustration) .
Use a 1.0 litre plastic bottle as a header tank
24 Fit the header tank to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system whilst observing the bleed holes. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed holes in turn, starting with the heater matrix hose. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the heater matrix hose outlet, securely refit the cap/screw (as applicable) then watch the bleed hole on the coolant housing. Once coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the housing hole, refit the bleed screw and sealing washer and tighten securely.
25 Refit the air cleaner assembly.
26 Continue to fill the cooling system until bubbles stop appearing in the expansion tank. Help to bleed the air from the system by repeatedly squeezing the radiator bottom hose.
27 When no more bubbles appear, ensure the header tank is full (at least 1.0 litre of coolant) then start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in and out TWICE, then when the fan has stopped for the second time, switch the engine off.
Caution: The coolant will be hot. Take great care not to scald yourself.
28 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the header tank. Wash off any spilt coolant with cold water.
29 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level. Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the expansion tank cap. Where removed, refit the engine undershield.

Antifreeze mixture

30 The cooling system is initially ‘filled-for-life’, but any other brand of antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
31 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze of the specified type.
32 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
33 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
34 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Washer fluid level

8 • Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system – this may damage the paintwork.
The washer fluid reservoir is located at the front right-hand side of the engine compartment. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Brake and clutch fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.
Warning: Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first!

9 • If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Note: On later models, it is possible to set the wiper blades to their vertical (maintenance) position by first switching the ignition on and off, then within one minute move the wiper control stalk. To return the blades to their normal position, switch the ignition on and move the wiper control stalk.
Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.
On front wipers, move the blade down the arm to disengage the mounting block, then slide the blade from the arm.
To remove the rear wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, then unclip from the arm.
10 • If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located on the front of the vacuum servo unit in the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap.
Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only DOT 4 fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely and wipe off any spilt fluid.
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