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Brakes, suspension & tyres Fiat Grande Punto 2006 - 2015 Petrol 1.2 8v

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Grande Punto
2006 - 2015  | 1.2 8v Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable, you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs & pads
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface, it's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
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Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew both sets of front brake pads at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Note: New guide pin bolts will be required.
1 Apply the handbrake, then slacken the front roadwheel bolts. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
2 If new pads are to be fitted, reduce the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to the minimum level using a syringe (or similar).
3 Follow the relevant accompanying photos for the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration, and note the following points:
Disconnect the pad wear sensor wiring plug, where fitted
If there
Unscrew the upper, and lower guide pin bolts
Slide the caliper from place ...
... and suspend it from the spring using wire, to prevent straining the fluid hose
Remove the outer brake pad ...
... and the inner brake pad
Unclip the inner, outer, upper and lower shims
Clean the mounting bracket with aerosol brake cleaner and a soft brush
Measure the thickness of the pads friction material - if it
Press the upper, lower, inner and outer shims into place on the mounting bracket
Apply a thin smear of high-temperature, anti-seize grease to the edge of the pad backplate where it contacts the mounting bracket
Fit the inner brake pad, with wear sensor wiring (where applicable) ...
... and outer pad. Make sure the friction material is against the disc face!
If new pads have been fitted, push the piston fully into the caliper body using a piston retraction tool. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir level as the piston is pushed back!
Slide the caliper into place ...
... insert the new guide pin bolts ...
... and tighten them to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring plug (where fitted)
  1. New pads may have an adhesive foil on the backplates. Remove this foil prior to installation.
  2. Apply a thin smear of anti-seize grease only to the areas shown.
  3. When pushing the caliper piston back to accommodate new pads, keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
4 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining caliper.
5 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
6 Apply a little anti-seize grease to the hub surface where it contacts the wheel, then refit the roadwheels, lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to 120 Nm (89 Ibf ft).
7 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
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Front suspension strut replacement


1 Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the roadwheels.
2 Release the brake caliper hydraulic hose (and the ABS wheel speed sensor cable) from the brackets at the base of the suspension strut.
3 Unscrew the two nuts and remove the bolts securing the base of the suspension strut to the top of the hub carrier (see illustration) . New bolts/nuts will be required.
Undo the nuts, and withdraw the hub carrier-to-strut bolts
4 Pull the hub carrier outwards at the top to release it from the suspension strut.
5 Undo the nut securing the front anti-roll bar link rod to the strut (see illustration) . Counter hold the nut with an open ended spanner on the rod balljoint shank.
Counterhold with an open-ended spanner on the balljoint shank
6 Prise off the wiper arm spindle nut cover, then slacken and remove the spindle nut (see illustration) .
Prise off the cover, and undo the spindle nut
7 Lift the blade off the glass, and pull the wiper arm off its spindle. If necessary, the arm can be carefully removed using a suitable puller (see illustration) . As both windscreen wiper arms are to be removed, note their locations, as different arms are fitted to the driver’s and passenger’s sides.
If necessary, use a puller to release the arms from the spindles
8 Undo the 3 screws and remove the windscreen base trim along with the rubber sealing strip (see illustrations) .
Undo the 3 screws at the front edge of the windscreen base trim ...
... then pull up the trim panel along with the rubber sealing strip
9 Have an assistant support the strut from underneath the wheel arch. Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the nut securing the upper mounting cup to the strut piston rod while counterholding the piston rod with a suitable Allen key. Lift off the upper mounting cup and withdraw the assembly from under the wheel arch (see illustrations) .
Counterhold the piston rod with an Allen bit/key, then undo the strut retaining nut
Recover the upper mounting cup


10 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch and locate the upper mounting cup over the strut piston. Refit the retaining nut and moderately tighten it at this stage. Final tightening of this nut is carried out with the car resting on its roadwheels.
11 Engage the lower end of the strut with the hub carrier, then fit the new securing bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
Front suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts/nuts Nm Ibf ft
  Stage 1 115 85
  Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 45°
12 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal. With the car resting on its
Suspension strut upper mounting cup retaining nut 50 Nm (37 Ibf ft)
Roadwheel bolts 120 Nm (89 Ibf ft)
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
This model has drum brakes. The minimum brake shoe wear thickness is 1.5mm. If you need to replace the rear shoes, click below
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Rear brake shoes replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of rear brake shoes at the same time – NEVER renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
1 Chock the front wheels, slacken the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Fully release the handbrake, and remove the rear roadwheels.
2 If the original drum is to be refitted, mark the relationship between the drum and the hub. Slacken and remove the two retaining bolts and pull the drum from the hub.
3 If the drum is binding on the brake shoes, screw two M10 bolts into the threaded holes in the drum and progressively tighten them against the hub flange to push the drum from the hub (see illustration) .
Use two M10 bolts to force the drum from the hub
4 Working carefully, and taking the necessary precautions, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
5 Measure the thickness of the friction material of each brake shoe at several points; if either shoe is worn at any point to 2.0 mm thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set. The shoes should also be renewed if any are fouled with hydraulic fluid, oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated.
6 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly, or contaminated, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.
7 Note the position of each shoe, and the location of the return springs and self-adjuster mechanism to aid refitting later (see illustration) .
Note the positions of the brake components - drivers side brake assembly shown
8 Depress the leading brake shoe hold-down spring clip and slide the clip out from under the pin head, while holding the pin from the rear (see illustration) . Remove the pin from the rear of the backplate.
Depress the hold-down clip and slide it from place
9 Pull out the leading shoe a little, detach the lower return spring, pull the top of the leading shoe from the cylinder piston, then pivot the shoe upwards, remove the self-adjusting mechanism, and detach the upper return spring (see illustrations) .
Detach the lower return spring
Remove the self-adjusting mechanism ...
... and upper return spring
10 Remove the hold-down spring clip and pin from the trailing brake shoe, then withdraw the shoe from the backplate.
11 Slide the handbrake cable end out of the lever on the trailing shoe (see illustration) . Remove the trailing brake shoe.
Detach the handbrake cable from the lever
12 Retain the wheel cylinder pistons in the wheel cylinder using a cable tie or a strong elastic band. Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled.
13 Carefully examine the self-adjuster mechanism for signs of wear or damage. Pay particular attention to the threads and the toothed adjuster wheel, and renew if necessary.
14 Check the condition of all return springs and renew any that show signs of distortion or other damage.
15 Peel back the rubber protective caps, and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage; check that both cylinder pistons are free to move easily.
16 Prior to installation, clean the backplate, and apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake grease or anti-seize compound to all those surfaces of the backplate which bear on the shoes, particularly the wheel cylinder pistons and lower pivot point. Do not allow the lubricant to foul the friction material.
17 Connect the handbrake cable to the lever on the trailing brake shoe, locate the trailing shoe on the backplate and secure in position with the pin and hold-down spring clip.
18 Fit upper brake shoe return spring, and the self-adjuster mechanism into the recess in the trailing brake shoe, then engage the leading shoe with the other end of the adjuster mechanism (see illustrations) .
Engage the self-adjusting mechanism with the trailing shoe ...
... and leading shoe
19 Fit the lower brake shoe return spring, engaging it with the slots in the shoes (see illustration) . Remove the elastic band or cable tie from the wheel cylinder.
Refit the lower return spring
20 Manoeuvre the leading shoe into position and secure it with the hold-down pin and spring clip.
21 Turn the serrated wheel at the end of the self-adjuster mechanism, to retract the brake shoes – this will give additional clearance to allow the drum to pass over the shoes during refitting.
22 If a new brake drum is to be installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating that may have been applied to its internal friction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the serrated strut wheel, to allow the drum to pass over the brake shoes.
23 If the original drum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then fit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them securely.
24 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure is restored.
25 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake.
26 Refit the roadwheels, and lightly tighten the retaining bolts.
27 With the pedal released, check that the rear roadwheels can be rotated – slight dragging is acceptable, but it should be possible to turn each wheel easily.
28 Apply the handbrake lever and check that the rear roadwheels start to drag after one click of the ratchet mechanism, and are fully locked within 5 clicks of the ratchet.
29 Fully release the handbrake, and check that the rear roadwheels can again be rotated by hand.
30 If the handbrake does not operate as described, carry out the adjustment procedure as follows.
31 Carefully prise up the trim panel adjacent to the handbrake lever (see illustration) .
Prise up the panel around the handbrake lever
32 Using a spanner or suitable socket, turn the adjuster nut clockwise to apply tension to the cables, or anti-clockwise to release the tension on the cables, as necessary (see illustration) . Check the operation of the handbrake as described previously and repeat the adjustment procedure as required.
Handbrake adjuster nut
33 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and tighten the roadwheel bolts to 120 Nm (89 Ibf ft).
34 On completion, check the brake hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
Caution: Note that new shoes will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after shoe renewal.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
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Rear shock absorber replacement


1 Remove the rear wheelarch liner
2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the rear axle trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the shock absorber.
3 Slacken and withdraw the shock absorber lower retaining bolt (see illustration) .
Shock absorber lower retaining bolt/nut
4 Lower the jack and allow the shock absorber to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring.
5 Undo the 2 bolts securing the shock absorber upper mounting to the vehicle body (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber upper mounting bolts
6 Manoeuvre the shock absorber from the wheelarch. Note that to avoid confusion when refitting, the right-hand mounting only has an identification hole.
7 Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage or damage. While holding it in an upright position, test the operation of the shock absorber by moving the piston through a full stroke, and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is necessary.
8 If required, undo the nut and detach the upper mounting assembly from the shock absorber.


9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the shock absorber upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight of the car is resting on its roadwheels.
Shock absorber lower mounting bolts 130 Nm (96 Ibf ft)
Shock absorber upper mounting bolts 80 Nm (59 Ibf ft)
Check rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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