Skip to main content
Menu
0 items

Haynes On Demand sales are currently limited to residents of the United Kingdom only.

Fluid level checks Ford Fiesta 2002 - 2008 Diesel 1.6 TDCi

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Fiesta 2002 - 2008  | 1.6 TDCi Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

Diesel engine - Duratorq 1.6 TDCi A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery
Petrol engine - Duratec 16V A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery
Diesel engine - Duratorq 1.4 TDCi A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir G Battery

Engine oil level

HINT: If the oil is checked immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

1 Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used.
Engine oil grade Motorcraft Formula E, or SAE 5W-30 engine oil to Ford specification WSS-M2C913-B

Car Care

2 If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.
3 Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is located in a tube at the front of the engine on all engines except the 1.3 litre, which has it at the rear of the engine (see Underbonnet check points for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.
Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper (MAX) mark and the lower (MIN) mark.If the engine is very hot, the oil level may appear to be above the upper mark, owing to thermal expansion. Approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower to the upper mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the filler cap, then top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill. If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn, position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see illustration) . If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Unscrew the drain plug from the base of the sump
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.
Engine oil drain plug:
  1.4 litre engine 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft)
  1.6 litre engine 34 Nm (25 Ibf ft)
6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front side of the cylinder block.
7 The filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a socket or spanner, slacken and remove the filter cover from above (see illustration) . Be prepared for oil spillage, and recover the O-ring seal from the cover.
Engine oil filter cover
8 Pull the filter element from the filter housing.
9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover.
10 Fit the new O-ring to the filter cover, then insert the new filter element into the housing, ensuring that the element locating peg engages correctly with the corresponding hole in the housing (see illustrations) .
Fit the new O-ring to the cover
Ensure the filter locating peg locates into the corresponding hole in the housing
11 Apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal, then refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
12 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
13 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage (see illustrations) . Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Remove the oil filler cap . . .
. . . and start filling the engine with oil
Engine oil quantity: Litres
  1.4 litre engine 5.5
  1.6 litre engine 6.0
Engine oil grade Motorcraft Formula E, or SAE 5W-30 engine oil to Ford specification WSS-M2C913-B
14 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (where fitted) before the pressure builds-up.
15 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn, position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see illustration) . If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.
Unscrew the drain plug from the base of the sump
HINT: As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.
Engine oil drain plug:
  1.4 litre engine 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft)
  1.6 litre engine 34 Nm (25 Ibf ft)
6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front side of the cylinder block.
7 The filter element is contained within a filter cover. Using a socket or spanner, slacken and remove the filter cover from above (see illustration) . Be prepared for oil spillage, and recover the O-ring seal from the cover.
Engine oil filter cover
8 Pull the filter element from the filter housing.
9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the inside and outside of the filter cover.
10 Fit the new O-ring to the filter cover, then insert the new filter element into the housing, ensuring that the element locating peg engages correctly with the corresponding hole in the housing (see illustrations) .
Fit the new O-ring to the cover
Ensure the filter locating peg locates into the corresponding hole in the housing
11 Apply a little clean engine oil to the O-ring seal, then refit the filter/cover to the housing and tighten the cover to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
12 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
13 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage (see illustrations) . Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Remove the oil filler cap . . .
. . . and start filling the engine with oil
Engine oil quantity: Litres
  1.4 litre engine 5.5
  1.6 litre engine 6.0
Engine oil grade Motorcraft Formula E, or SAE 5W-30 engine oil to Ford specification WSS-M2C913-B
14 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (where fitted) before the pressure builds-up.
15 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

Coolant level

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

4 With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
5 It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.
The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. The large expansion tank (located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side) has MAX and MIN level markings. When cold, the level should be between the two marks.When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold, then turn the pressure cap on the expansion tank slowly anti-clockwise, and pause until any pressure remaining in the system is released. Unscrew the cap and lift off.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant is up to the MAX mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure. Recheck that the cap is securely tightened once the engine is warm. Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the car. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise, wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then unscrew it and lift it off.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator drain plug, at the bottom left-hand corner of the radiator (left as seen from the driver’s seat) (see illustration) .
The drain plug is at the bottom right-hand corner of the radiator
3 Slacken the drain plug using a wide-bladed screwdriver, and allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the radiator drain plug . . .
. . . and allow the coolant to drain
4 When the flow of coolant stops, tighten the radiator drain plug.
5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.

Cooling system flushing

6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
7 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

8 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
10 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

11 Remove the thermostat, then, if the radiator top hose has been disconnected from the engine, temporarily reconnect the hose.
12 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
13 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.

Antifreeze mixture

14 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
15 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The antifreeze recommended by Ford at the time of writing is their purple-coloured Super Plus antifreeze, which, if it is not mixed with any other anti-freeze, can be left in the system for 10 years. Owners may wish to change their antifreeze more frequently, especially if the type and quality in the system is unknown.
16 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
17 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
18 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the paintwork. A screen-wash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components.
20 Locate and unscrew the radiator bleed plug, which looks similar to the drain plug, and is situated at the top left-hand or right-hand corner of the radiator (depending on model).
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. If a funnel is available for filling the cooling system, use it to reduce the risk of spillage onto the paintwork under the bonnet.
22 Slowly fill the system until coolant emerges from the radiator bleed hole, or until the level settles at the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank.
Coolant quantity: Litres
  1.4 litre engine 5.5
  1.6 litre engine 6.0
23 Refit and tighten the radiator bleed plug.
24 If necessary, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark, and refit the expansion tank cap.
25 Start the engine, run it at approximately 3000 rpm for two minutes, then switch off.
26 Recheck the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Although the system should still be some way off full operating temperature at this point, take precautions against scalding if the expansion tank cap has to be removed.
27 With the expansion tank cap refitted, start the engine once more, and run it at 3000 rpm for another two minutes. Switch the engine off on completion, and allow it to cool. When the engine has cooled (preferably overnight), recheck the level once more, and top-up if necessary.

Airlocks

28 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly.
29 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant hose which is full of air feels quite different to one full of coolant, when squeezed. After refilling the system, most airlocks will clear once the system has cooled, and been topped-up.
30 While the engine is running at operating temperature, switch on the heater and heater fan, and check for heat output. Provided there is sufficient coolant in the system, any lack of heat output could be due to an airlock in the system.
31 Airlocks can have more serious effects than simply reducing heater output – a severe airlock could reduce coolant flow around the engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot when the engine is at operating temperature – a top hose which stays cold could be the result of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat).
32 If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or loosening the hose clips and squeezing the hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the worst case, the system will have to be at least partially drained (this time, the coolant can be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the problem.

Pressure (expansion tank) cap check

33 Clean the pressure cap, and inspect the seal inside the cap for damage or deterioration (see illustration) . If there is any sign of damage or deterioration to the seal, fit a new pressure cap.
Check the condition of the seal
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the car. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise, wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then unscrew it and lift it off.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator drain plug, at the bottom left-hand corner of the radiator (left as seen from the driver’s seat) (see illustration) .
The drain plug is at the bottom right-hand corner of the radiator
3 Slacken the drain plug using a wide-bladed screwdriver, and allow the coolant to drain into the container (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the radiator drain plug . . .
. . . and allow the coolant to drain
4 When the flow of coolant stops, tighten the radiator drain plug.
5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than four years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.

Cooling system flushing

6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
7 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

8 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
10 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

11 Remove the thermostat, then, if the radiator top hose has been disconnected from the engine, temporarily reconnect the hose.
12 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
13 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.

Antifreeze mixture

14 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
15 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The antifreeze recommended by Ford at the time of writing is their purple-coloured Super Plus antifreeze, which, if it is not mixed with any other anti-freeze, can be left in the system for 10 years. Owners may wish to change their antifreeze more frequently, especially if the type and quality in the system is unknown.
16 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
17 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
18 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the paintwork. A screen-wash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components.
20 Locate and unscrew the radiator bleed plug, which looks similar to the drain plug, and is situated at the top left-hand or right-hand corner of the radiator (depending on model).
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. If a funnel is available for filling the cooling system, use it to reduce the risk of spillage onto the paintwork under the bonnet.
22 Slowly fill the system until coolant emerges from the radiator bleed hole, or until the level settles at the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank.
Coolant quantity: Litres
  1.4 litre engine 5.5
  1.6 litre engine 6.0
23 Refit and tighten the radiator bleed plug.
24 If necessary, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark, and refit the expansion tank cap.
25 Start the engine, run it at approximately 3000 rpm for two minutes, then switch off.
26 Recheck the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Although the system should still be some way off full operating temperature at this point, take precautions against scalding if the expansion tank cap has to be removed.
27 With the expansion tank cap refitted, start the engine once more, and run it at 3000 rpm for another two minutes. Switch the engine off on completion, and allow it to cool. When the engine has cooled (preferably overnight), recheck the level once more, and top-up if necessary.

Airlocks

28 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly.
29 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant hose which is full of air feels quite different to one full of coolant, when squeezed. After refilling the system, most airlocks will clear once the system has cooled, and been topped-up.
30 While the engine is running at operating temperature, switch on the heater and heater fan, and check for heat output. Provided there is sufficient coolant in the system, any lack of heat output could be due to an airlock in the system.
31 Airlocks can have more serious effects than simply reducing heater output – a severe airlock could reduce coolant flow around the engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot when the engine is at operating temperature – a top hose which stays cold could be the result of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat).
32 If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or loosening the hose clips and squeezing the hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the worst case, the system will have to be at least partially drained (this time, the coolant can be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the problem.

Pressure (expansion tank) cap check

33 Clean the pressure cap, and inspect the seal inside the cap for damage or deterioration (see illustration) . If there is any sign of damage or deterioration to the seal, fit a new pressure cap.
Check the condition of the seal

Brake and clutch* fluid level

6 * The brake fluid reservoir also supplies fluid to the clutch master cylinder.
Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first!

7 If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.
8 If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located right at the back of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag, then unscrew the cap. When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The fluid should be changed if it appears to be dark, or if dirt is visible.
Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only DOT 4 fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Screen washer fluid level

9 Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted and will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or damage paintwork.
The windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir filler neck is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment,next to the battery. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir, a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.
To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then depress the locking clip at the base of the mounting block, and slide the blade out of the hooked end of the arm.
Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. The blade can be removed the same way as the windscreen wiper blades.

Power steering fluid level

Note: This Section applies to all petrol models and 1.4 litre diesel models. 1.6 litre diesel models are equipped with an electro-hydraulic system, and the reservoir is hidden beneath the left-hand headlight. There is no requirement to carry out a weekly check of the fluid level on 1.6 litre diesel models.

Before you start

10 The level should be checked when the engine is cold (ie, before the car is driven).

Safety first!

11 The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak which should be investigated immediately.
12 If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
The power steering fluid reservoir is located in front of the coolant expansion tank. The fluid level should be checked with the engine stopped. A translucent reservoir is fitted, with MAX and MIN markings on the side of the reservoir.
The fluid level should be between the MAX and MIN marks. If topping-up is necessary, and before removing the cap, wipe the surrounding area so that dirt does not enter the reservoir.
Unscrew the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the cap as it is removed. Top up the fluid level to the MAX mark, using only Hydraulic fluid to Ford specification WSA-M2C 57-A (do not overfill the reservoir), then refit and tighten the filler cap.
All OnDemand jobs for your car
£9.99
1 year subscription

Already purchased this job? Log into your account to view