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Brakes, suspension & tyres Ford Fiesta 2008 - 2011 Diesel 1.4 TDCi

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Fiesta 2008 - 2011  | 1.4 TDCi Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable, you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs & pads
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface, it's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
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Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the pad renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points listed below. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. Note that if the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that they are identified so that they can be returned to their original positions.
Unscrew the lower guide pin bolt while holding the guide pin with a second spanner . . .
. . . remove the upper guide pin bolt in the same way
Unscrew the retaining bolt . . .
. . . and free the brake hose support bracket from the suspension strut
Lift the caliper off the mounting bracket . . .
. . . and suspended it from the coil spring using wire or a cable-tie
Remove the outer pad from the caliper mounting bracket . . .
. . . followed by the inner pad
Remove the anti-rattle plates from the top . . .
. . . and bottom of the caliper mounting bracket
Measure the thickness of the pad friction material. If any are worn down to 1.5 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads must be renewed
Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper piston and mounting bracket
If new pads are to be fitted, before refitting the caliper, push back the caliper piston whilst opening the bleed screw
Fit the upper anti-rattle plate . . .
. . . and lower anti-rattle plate to the caliper mounting bracket
Note the pad orientation before fitting. Outer pad (A) and inner pad (B)
Fit the inner and outer pads to the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction material is facing the brake disc
Slide the caliper into position in the mounting bracket
Fit the upper and lower guide pin bolts . . .
. . . and tighten the guide pin bolts to 28 Nm (21 Ibf ft)
3 Refit the brake hose to the support bracket, and tighten the retaining bolt.
4 If the original brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing plate. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper mounting bracket.
5 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide pins are a snug fit in the caliper mounting bracket. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage.
6 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel. Close the bleed screw just before the caliper piston is pushed fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air enters the hydraulic system. Note: The ABS unit contains hydraulic components that are very sensitive to impurities in the brake fluid. Even the smallest particles can cause the system to fail through blockage. The pad retraction method described here prevents any debris in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic unit, as well as preventing any chance of damage to the master cylinder seals.
7 With the brake pads installed, depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc.
8 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
9 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
10 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Seek advice should you detect a problem. Replace the wheel and repeat on the other side
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
This model has drum brakes. The minimum brake shoe wear thickness is 1.0mm If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
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Rear brake shoes replacement

Warning: Brake shoes must be renewed on BOTH rear wheels at the same time – NEVER renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. The dust created as the shoes wear may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
2 Ensure that the handbrake is fully released, then undo the two retaining screws and withdraw the drum from the wheel hub. If the drum is initially tight, screw a suitable bolt into the threaded hole on the front face of the drum. Tighten the bolt to draw off the drum while tapping around the periphery with a copper mallet (see illustrations) .
Undo the two retaining screws (arrowed) . . .
. . . and withdraw the drum from the wheel hub
If necessary, screw a bolt (arrowed) into the threaded hole and tighten the bolt to draw off the drum
3 If the drum will still not pull off easily due to binding of the brake shoes, proceed as follows.
4 From inside the car, unclip the gear lever or selector lever trim from the base of the gear/selector lever (see illustration) .
Unclip the gear lever trim from the base of the gear lever
5 Pull up the centre console front upper trim panel, to release the retaining clips. Disconnect the accessory socket wiring connector and remove the panel (see illustrations) .
Pull up the centre console front upper trim panel . . .
. . . then disconnect the accessory socket wiring connector
6 Working through the aperture at the base of the handbrake lever, remove the retaining clip from the handbrake adjuster nut on the end of the handbrake cable (see illustrations) . Using a socket and extension bar, slacken the adjuster nut on the handbrake cable six turns to introduce some slack in the cable.
Working through the aperture (arrowed) at the base of the handbrake lever . . .
. . . remove the retaining clip from the adjuster nut on the end of the handbrake cable
7 It should now be possible to draw off the drum as described in paragraph 2.
8 With the brake drum removed, clean the dust from the drum, brake shoes, wheel cylinder and backplate, using brake cleaner or methylated spirit. Take care not to inhale the dust, as it may contain asbestos.
9 Working carefully and taking the necessary precautions, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
10 Follow the accompanying photos for the brake shoe renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points listed below. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
Measure the thickness of the brake shoe friction material at several points. If any are worn down to 1.0 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four shoes must be renewed
Using a screwdriver, disengage the upper return spring from the leading shoe (arrowed), then remove it from the trailing shoe
Depress and pull off the leading shoe retaining spring clip . . .
. . . then remove the retainer pin from the rear of the backplate
Pull the lower end of the leading shoe outward and disengage it from the abutment bracket
Disengage the adjuster lever from the brake shoe peg and tension spring then remove the adjuster lever and adjuster strut
Disengage and remove the tension spring from the leading shoe
Disengage the lower return spring (arrowed) from the leading shoe and remove the shoe
Disengage the lower return spring from the trailing shoe and remove the spring
Depress and pull off the trailing shoe retaining spring clip . . .
. . . then remove the retainer pin from the rear of the backplate
Pull back the spring and disengage the handbrake cable end from the handbrake lever on the trailing shoe, then remove the shoe
Use a cable-tie or elastic band to retain the wheel cylinder pistons
Thoroughly clean the backplate, then apply a smear of high-temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces (arrowed)
Engage the handbrake cable with the handbrake lever on the trailing shoe and position the shoe on the backplate
Insert the trailing shoe retainer pin . . .
. . . then refit the trailing shoe retaining spring clip
Engage the lower return spring with the trailing shoe . . .
. . . and leading shoe . . .
. . . then engage the leading shoe with the abutment bracket
Engage the adjuster strut fork (arrowed) with the handbrake lever on the trailing shoe . . .
. . . and over the peg (arrowed) on the leading shoe
Place the adjuster lever over the peg on the leading shoe and under the adjuster strut fork
Engage the tension spring with the leading shoe and adjuster lever (arrowed)
Insert the leading shoe retainer pin . . .
. . . then refit the leading shoe retaining spring clip
Engage the upper return spring with the trailing shoe . . .
. . . then pull it into engagement with the leading shoe (arrowed). Cut off the cable-tie or elastic band used to retain the wheel cylinder pistons
Pull adjuster lever away from the adjuster fork and turn the adjuster wheel (arrowed) as necessary until the drum can be refitted
11 If both brake assemblies are dismantled at the same time, take care not to mix up the components. Note that the left-hand and right-hand adjuster components are ‘handed’ and must not be interchanged.
12 Prior to refitting the adjuster mechanism, lift the adjuster lever and turn the adjuster strut wheel to shorten the overall length of the mechanism slightly. This will compensate for the additional thickness of the new brake shoes, and allow the brake drum to be fitted easily.
13 On completion, place the brake drum in position over the brake shoes. It is not necessary to refit the two retaining screws at this stage as the drums must be removed again later to adjust the handbrake.
14 Repeat the operation on the remaining brake.
15 Once both sets of rear shoes have been renewed, with the handbrake fully released, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal 20 to 25 times. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster mechanism is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the adjuster as the pedal is depressed.
16 If not already done when removing the brake drums, unclip the gear lever or selector lever trim from the base of the gear/selector lever.
17 Pull up the centre console front upper trim panel, to release the retaining clips. Disconnect the accessory socket wiring connector and remove the panel .
18 Working through the aperture at the base of the handbrake lever, remove the retaining clip from the handbrake adjuster nut on the end of the handbrake cable.
19 Working on one side of the car at a time, lift the adjuster lever on each leading brake shoe and slacken the adjuster strut wheel to shorten the overall length of the brake shoe adjuster mechanism slightly (see illustration) .
Pull the adjuster lever away from the adjuster fork and turn the adjuster wheel to shorten the adjuster assembly
20 Working on the brake shoe assembly on the right-hand side of the car, wrap a cable-tie around the trailing brake shoe and the handbrake operating lever on the brake shoe. Tighten the cable-tie until the stop-peg on the handbrake operating lever is in contact with the edge of the brake shoe (see illustration) .
Fit a cable tie to the trailing show to hold the stop-peg (arrowed) on the handbrake lever against the brake shoe
21 Working on the brake shoe assembly on the left-hand side of the car, insert a 4 mm Allen key between the stop-peg on the trailing brake shoe handbrake operating lever, and the edge of the brake shoe (see illustration) .
Insert a 4 mm Allen key between the stop-peg (arrowed) on the handbrake lever and the edge of the brake shoe
22 Working through the aperture at the base of the handbrake lever, and using a socket and extension bar, tighten the adjuster nut on the handbrake cable until the Allen key falls out (see illustration) .
Tighten the adjuster nut on the handbrake cable until the Allen key falls out
23 Remove the cable-tie from the right-hand brake shoe assembly.
24 Refit the brake drums, and tighten the retaining screws securely.
25 With the handbrake fully released, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal at least 10 times. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed.
26 Apply the handbrake and check that the after approximately three to five clicks of the ratchet, both rear brake drums are locked. Now fully release the handbrake lever and check that the drums rotate freely.
27 Refit the centre console trim panel and gear/selector lever trim panel.
28 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New brake shoes will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after shoe renewal.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
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Rear shock absorber replacement

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the relevant roadwheel.
2 Remove the plastic wheel arch liner for access to the shock absorber upper mounting bolts. The liner is secured by a combination of screws and clips.
3 Support the trailing arm section of the beam axle using a trolley jack, then unscrew the shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Withdraw (or tap out) the bolt. Slide the bottom end of the shock absorber out of its mounting (see illustrations) .
With the trailing arm supported, unscrew and remove the lower bolt . . .
. . . and free the lower end of the shock absorber
4 Support the shock absorber, remove the two upper mounting bolts inside the wheel arch, and remove the unit (see illustration) .
Shock absorber upper mounting bolts (arrowed)

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points:
  1. Fit the upper mounting bolts first, and tighten them to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
  2. The lower mounting bolt should be fitted hand-tight only, then tightened to 115 Nm (85 Ibf ft) once the roadwheel has been refitted and the car is back on the ground.
  3. Tighten the roadwheel nuts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
Check rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, as there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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