Disc brake pads must be renewed on BOTH rear wheels at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Although genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the dust created by wear of non-genuine pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to contact the brake pads or disc.
Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st gear (or P). Loosen the rear wheel nuts, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the rear wheels, and release the handbrake.
Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary.
Push back the caliper handbrake arm to obtain some slack in the cable, pull up and disconnect the cable from the caliper arm
. Once the cable has been disconnected, don’t operate the handbrake arm excessively, as this will make refitting the cable more difficult.
Disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper arm
Unscrew and remove the two caliper retaining bolts
. Withdraw and support the caliper on an axle stand, or tie it to one side with wire. Do not allow it to hang down unsupported, as this will strain the brake hose.
Remove the second bolt from the caliper
Remove the pads from the carrier bracket, noting their fitted positions
. Brush all dust and dirt from the caliper, pads and disc, but do not inhale it, as it may be harmful to health. Scrape any corrosion from the edge of the disc.
Remove the inner pad from the caliper bracket ...
...followed by the outer pad
Inspect the rear brake disc. Measure the thickness of the pad friction material - if it's less than 1.5 mm, renew all four pads.
Before fitting the new pads, screw the caliper piston fully into its bore
, at the same time pressing the piston fully to the bottom of the bore. Special tools are available for this operation, although it may be possible to use long-nosed pliers engaged with the cut-outs in the piston. Brake fluid will be displaced into the master cylinder reservoir, so check first that there is enough space to accept the fluid. If necessary, syphon off some of the fluid. Any brake fluid spilt on paintwork should be washed off with clean water, without delay – brake fluid is also a highly-effective paint-stripper.
Use a special tool to screw the piston back into the caliper
Do not syphon the fluid by mouth; it is poisonous.
The caliper piston must be rotated so that one of the cut-outs is positioned to engage with the lug on the back of the inner pad
One of the cut-outs must line up with the lug on the brake pad
Fit the new pads, applying a little copper-based brake grease to the contact areas on the pad backing plates, and taking care not to get any on the friction material.
Refit the caliper back into position making sure the flexible brake hose is not twisted, engage the piston cut-out with the lug on the back of the inner pad
, and tighten the two securing bolts to 35 Nm (26 Ibf ft). Do not depress the brake pedal until the handbrake cable has been reconnected, since the extra pad-to-disc clearance makes reconnecting the cable easier.
Arrow shows the lug on the rear of the brake pad
Reconnect the cable to the caliper operating arm.
Firmly depress the brake pedal a few times, to bring the pads to their normal working position. Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir, and top-up if necessary.
Tighten the roadwheel nuts to 85 Nm (62 Ibf ft).
Give the vehicle a road test, to make sure that the brakes are functioning correctly, and to bed-in the new linings to the contours of the disc. Remember that full braking efficiency will not be obtained until the new linings have bedded-in.