Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
Changing the wheel
The spare wheel and tools are stored under the floor in the luggage compartment. Lift up the cover panel. Unscrew the retaining bolt, and lift the spare wheel out. The jack and wheel brace are located beneath the spare wheel. The screw-in towing eye is located alongside the spare wheel.
Where applicable, using the flat end of the wheel brace, prise off the wheel trim or centre cover for access to the wheel nuts. Models with alloy wheels may have special locking nuts – these are removed with a special tool, which should be provided with the wheel brace (or it may be in the glovebox).
Slacken each wheel nut by a half turn, using the wheel brace. If the nuts are too tight, DON’T stand on the wheelbrace to undo them – call for assistance from one of the motoring organisations.
Two jacking points are provided on each side – use the one nearest the punctured wheel. Locate the jack head in the groove at the jacking point in the lower sill flange (don’t jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill, nor on a plastic panel).
Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel nuts, noting which way round they fit (tapered side inwards), and remove the wheel.
Fit the spare wheel, and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheel brace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts, then refit the wheel trim or centre cover, as applicable.
| Gold nuts for steel wheels
| Silver nuts for steel wheels
| One-piece alloy nuts for alloy wheels and 5-spoke steel wheels
| Two-piece alloy nuts with conical washer
Some models are supplied with a special lightweight
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