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Brakes, suspension & tyres Ford Focus 2005 - 2011 Diesel 2.0 TDCi

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Focus 2005 - 2011  | 2.0 TDCi Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. A very slight play may be felt, which is OK, but if the movement is appreciable you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check the condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs and pads
Now locate the brake pads. There are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface. It's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
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Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew both sets of front brake pads at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then slacken the front roadwheel nuts. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad renewal procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration, and note the following points:
  1. New pads may have an adhesive foil on the backplates. Remove this foil prior to installation.
  2. Thoroughly clean the caliper guide surfaces, and apply a little brake assembly (polycarbamide) grease.
  3. When pushing the caliper piston back to accommodate new pads, keep a close eye on the fluid lever in the reservoir.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to carefully prise off the caliper retaining spring
Prise out the rubber caps . . .
. . . and use an Allen key to undo the caliper guide bolts (arrowed)
Slide the caliper and inner pad from the disc
Pull the inner brake pad from the caliper piston . . .
. . . and lift the outer pad from the caliper bracket
If you’re fitting new pads, push the piston back into the caliper using a piston retraction tool or G-clamp
Clean the pad mounting surfaces with a wire brush
Measure the thickness of the pad’s friction material. If it’s 1.5 mm or less, renew all the front pads
Fit the outer pad to the caliper mounting bracket . . .
. . . then fit the inner pad to the caliper piston
Slide the caliper with the inner panel fitted over the disc and outer pad
Refit the caliper guide bolts and tighten them to 28 Nm (21 Ibf ft)
Press the rubber caps into position
Use a pair of pliers . . .
. . . to refit the caliper retaining spring
Caution: Pushing back the piston causes a reverse-flow of brake fluid, which has been known to ‘flip’ the master cylinder rubber seals, resulting in a total loss of braking. To avoid this, clamp the caliper flexible hose and open the bleed screw – as the piston is pushed back, the fluid can be directed into a suitable container using a hose attached to the bleed screw. Close the screw just before the piston is pushed fully back, to ensure no air enters the system.
3 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
4 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
5 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.
Roadwheel nuts: Nm Ibf ft
  Gold nuts for steel wheels 90 66
  Silver nuts for steel wheels 130 96
  One-piece alloy nuts for alloy wheels and 5-spoke steel wheels 130 96
  Two-piece alloy nuts with conical washer 110 81
6 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, and you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
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Front suspension strut replacement

Removal

1 Loosen the appropriate front wheel nuts, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine (where fitted).
3 Undo the 2 bolts securing the brake fluid remote reservoir (where fitted) to the cowl panel.
4 If the wipers are not in their parked position, switch on the ignition, and allow the motor to automatically park.
5 Before removing an arm, mark its parked position on the glass with a strip of adhesive tape. Prise off the cover and unscrew the spindle nut (see illustrations) . Ease the arm from the spindle by rocking it slowly from side-to-side.
Pull off the rubber cap, undo the nut...
...and remove the wiper arms
6 Release the 6 clips and remove the scuttle cowl panel (see illustrations) .
Prise forward the clips (arrowed) . . .
. . . and pull the scuttle cowl panel upwards from the base of the windscreen
7 Undo the 2 bolts at each end and pull the bulkhead extension panel forwards to release it from the clips release the clips and remove the bulkhead extension panel (see illustration) .
Undo the 2 bolts (arrowed) and pull the panel forwards to release it from the clips (arrowed)
8 Undo the nut securing the anti-roll bar link balljoint to the suspension strut. Use an Allen key to counterhold the balljoint shank (see illustration) . A new nut will be required.
Use an Allen key to counterhold the anti-roll bar link balljoint nut
9 Unclip the brake hose from the bracket on the suspension strut.
10 Disconnect the wheel speed sensor.
11 Remove the bolt securing the hub carrier to the shock absorber. Insert a flat-bladed tool into the gap and very slightly spread the hub carrier where it clamps onto the lower end of the shock absorber. Tap the hub carrier downwards from the shock absorber at the same time. Note which way the bolt is inserted – from the front (see illustrations) . A new bolt will be required.
With the bolt removed, spread the hub carrier slightly using a large screwdriver...
...then gently tap the hub carrier downwards from the shock absorber
12 Undo the 3 bolts securing the suspension top mountings (see illustration) . Have an assistant support the strut assembly.
Undo the 3 bolts securing the brace
13 Manoeuvre the strut out from underneath the wheel arch.

Refitting

14 Ensure the lug on the strut aligns with the gap in the hub carrier, then use a workshop jack to push the hub carrier onto the strut.
15 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, using new nuts/bolts where necessary.
Anti-roll bar connecting link nuts* 50 37
Roadwheel nuts:
  Gold nuts for steel wheels 90 66
  Silver nuts for steel wheels 130 96
  One-piece alloy nuts for alloy wheels and 5-spoke steel wheels 130 96
  Two-piece alloy nuts with conical washers 110 81
Suspension strut-to-hub carrier* 90 66
Suspension strut upper mounting/brace to body 32 24
Suspension strut upper mount brace to bulkhead nuts 20 15
*Do not re-use
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
This model has drum brakes. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
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Rear brake shoes replacement

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, release the handbrake and engage 1st gear. Loosen the relevant wheel nuts, jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2 Prise off the spring clip (where fitted), and pull the drum from place. If the drum is reluctant to move, use two 8.0 mm bolts screwed into the threaded holes (where provided), and draw the drum from place (see illustrations) .
Prise off the clip (arrowed)
Use 2 x 8 mm bolts to force the drum from place
3 With the brake drum removed, clean the dust from the drum, brake shoes, wheel cylinder and backplate, using brake cleaner or methylated spirit. Take care not to inhale the dust, as it may contain asbestos.
4 Note the fitted position of the springs and the brake shoes, then clean the components with brake cleaner, and allow to dry (see illustration) ; position a tray beneath the backplate, to catch the cleaner and residue.
Clean the components with brake cleaner
5 Remove the two shoe hold-down springs, use a pair of pliers to depress the ends so that they can be withdrawn off the pins. If required, remove the hold-down pins from the backplate (see illustration) . Note that on some models, it’s not possible to remove the rearmost hold-down pin with the backplate in place.
Depress the hold-down spring, and slide it from under the head of the pin
6 Disconnect the top ends of the shoes from the wheel cylinder, taking care not to damage the rubber boots (see illustration) .
Pull the top end of the shoe assembly outwards from the wheel cylinder
7 To prevent the wheel cylinder pistons from being accidentally ejected, fit a suitable elastic band or cable tie lengthways over the cylinder/pistons. DO NOT press the brake pedal while the shoes are removed.
8 Pull the bottom end of the brake shoes from the bottom anchor (see illustrations) using pliers or an adjustable spanner over the edge of the shoe to lever it away, if required.
Pull the bottom end of the shoes from the anchor...
...then pivot the whole brake shoe assembly outwards
9 Pull the handbrake cable spring back from the operating lever on the rear of the trailing shoe. Unhook the cable end from the cut-out in the lever, and remove the brake shoes (see illustration) .
Pull the spring back and disengage the handbrake lever cable end fitting from the lever on the shoe
10 Working on a clean bench, move the bottom ends of the brake shoes together, and unhook the lower return spring from the shoes, noting the location holes (see illustration) .
Unhook the lower return spring
11 Pull the leading shoe from the strut and brake shoe adjuster (see illustration) .
Pull the shoe from the strut and brake shoe adjuster
12 Pull the adjustment strut to release it from the trailing brake shoe, then unhook the upper return spring from the shoes, noting the location holes (see illustrations) . Ford insist that the upper return spring is renewed.
Pull the adjustment strut from the trailing shoe...
...then unhook the upper return spring
13 If the wheel cylinder shows signs of fluid leakage, or if there is any reason to suspect it of being defective, inspect it now.
14 Clean the backplate, and apply small amounts of high melting-point brake grease to the brake shoe contact points. Be careful not to get grease on any friction surfaces.
15 Lubricate the sliding components of the brake shoe adjuster with a little high melting-point brake grease.
16 Fit the new brake shoes using a reversal of the removal procedure, but set the adjustment strut so the diameter of the shoe assembly is 228 mm (see illustrations) .
Set the adjustment strut so the diameter of the shoe assembly is 228 mm
When reassembled, the top of the assembly should look like this...
...and the lower end should look like this

Refitting

17 Refit the brake drum. Note that it may be necessary to alter the length of the adjustment strut until the drum will fit over the shoes.
18 With the drum in position, refit the wheel, then carry out the renewal procedure on the remaining rear brake.
19 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Roadwheel nuts: Nm Ibf ft
  Gold nuts for steel wheels 90 66
  Silver nuts for steel wheels 130 96
  One-piece alloy nuts for alloy wheels and 5-spoke steel wheels 130 96
  Two-piece alloy nut with conical washer 110 81
20 Depress the brake pedal several times, in order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism and set the shoes at their normal operating position.
21 Make several forward and reverse stops, and operate the handbrake fully two or three times (adjust the handbrake as required). Give the vehicle a road test, to make sure that the brakes are functioning correctly, and to bed-in the new shoes to the contours of the drum. Remember that the new shoes will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
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Rear shock absorber replacement

Removal

1 Slacken the rear roadwheel nuts, then chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the rear wheels.
2 Place a trolley jack under the hub carrier and raise the suspension a little to take the load off the shock absorber.

Hatchback and Saloon models

3 Undo the 2 bolts securing the upper end of the shock absorber to the vehicle body (see illustration) .
Shock absorber upper mounting bolts (arrowed)
4 Undo the lower mounting bolt, and pull the shock absorber from the hub carrier (see illustration) .
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt (arrowed)
5 If required, undo the nut and pull the upper mounting from the shock absorber (see illustration) .
Undo the shock absorber upper mounting nut (arrowed)
6 Check the condition of the shock absorber and renew as necessary.

Estate models

7 If removing the left-hand shock absorber, unhook the rear silencer from the rubber mountings, undo the fasteners, and remove the exhaust heat shield (see illustration) .
Undo the nuts securing the heat shield
8 Undo the shock absorber upper mounting nut and remove the bolt (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber upper mounting bolt (arrowed)
9 Undo and remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (see illustration) . Manoeuvre the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
Rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening all nuts and bolts to the specified torques.
Roadwheel nuts: Nm Ibf ft
  Gold nuts for steel wheels 90 66
  Silver nuts for steel wheels 130 96
  One-piece alloy nuts for alloy wheels and 5-spoke steel wheels 130 96
  Two-piece alloy nuts with conical washers 110 81
Shock absorber upper mounting nut:*
  Normal suspension 25 18
  Self-levelling suspension (Nivomat) 60 45
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt 115 85
Shock absorber upper mounting bolts:
  Hatchback and Saloon models 25 18
  Estate models 115 85
*Do not re-use
Check rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread. There is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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