Brake shoes must be renewed on both rear wheels at the same time – NEVER renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that although Ford brake shoes do not contain asbestos, the dust created by wear of non-genuine shoes may be a health hazard. Do not use compressed air to blow out brake dust and debris – use a brush. Avoid inhaling any of the dust, and wear an approved filtration mask. Use only proprietary brake cleaner fluid or methylated spirits to clean the brake components, DO NOT use petrol or any other petroleum-based product as this will damage the rubber seals.
Working inside the car pull up the gaiter from the handbrake lever to expose the handbrake cable adjustment nut
. Fully loosen the nut (but do not remove it) so that the rear brake shoes are fully retracted.
Unclip the handbrake lever gaiter from the floor
Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.
Unscrew the bolts securing the rear stub axle to the rear axle, then withdraw the stub axle together with the hub/brake drum over the brake shoes
. Note that the backplate and spacer plate are riveted to the rear axle. On models with ABS, take care not to damage the ABS sensor bolted to the backplate.
Bolts securing the rear stub axle to the rear axle
Removing the stub axle together with the hub/brake drum over the brake shoes
Working carefully, and taking the necessary precautions to avoid inhalation of dust, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes
Rear brake shoes with the drum/hub removed
Measure the thickness of the friction material of each brake shoe at several points; if either shoe is worn at any point to 1.0 mm thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set. The shoes should also be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated.
If either of the brake shoes are worn unevenly, or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.
Note the position of each shoe, and the location of each of the springs. Also make a note of the self-adjuster component locations, to aid refitting later.
Using a pair of pliers, remove the shoe retainer springs by depressing and sliding them downwards, then withdraw the retainer pins from the brake backplate
Rear brake shoes retainer spring
Ease the shoes out one at a time from the lower anchor point, to release the tension of the return spring, then disconnect the lower return spring from both shoes, using pliers if necessary
Lower return spring
Ease the upper end of both shoes out from the wheel cylinder pistons, taking care not to damage the wheel cylinder seals, and disconnect the handbrake cable from the lever on the trailing shoe
. The brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can then be manoeuvred out of position and away from the backplate. Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled; fit a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them.
Handbrake cable connected to the lever on the trailing shoe
With the shoe and adjuster strut assembly on the bench, make a note of the correct fitted positions of the springs and adjuster strut, to use as a guide on reassembly. Unhook and remove the upper return spring then detach the leading shoe from the trailing shoe and strut assembly. Unhook the adjuster strut from the trailing shoe, and remove its spring, noting which way round it is fitted
Upper return spring location on the trailing shoe
Upper return spring location on the leading shoe
Carefully examine the adjuster strut assembly for signs of wear or damage, paying particular attention to the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism, and renew if necessary.
Depending on the brake shoes being installed, it may be necessary to remove the handbrake lever from the original trailing shoe, and install it on the new shoe. Secure the lever in position with a new retaining clip. All return springs should be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition. Note that spring kits are available from Ford dealers.
Fit the adjuster strut retaining spring to the trailing shoe, ensuring that the shorter hook of the spring is engaged with the shoe.
Fully extend the adjuster strut ratchet, then engage the adjuster strut with the leading shoe, and fully release the ratchet.
Attach the adjuster strut to the retaining spring on the trailing shoe, then ease the strut into position in its slot in the trailing shoe.
Hook the leading shoe onto the return spring, then manipulate the shoes until the return spring can be connected to the trailing shoe.
Remove the elastic band fitted to the wheel cylinder. Peel back the rubber protective caps, and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage. Also check that both cylinder pistons are free to move easily.
Prior to installation, clean the backplate and apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake grease to all those surfaces of the backplate which bear on the shoes, particularly the wheel cylinder pistons and lower anchor point. Do not use too much lubricant, and don’t allow the lubricant to foul the friction material.
Ensure that the adjuster strut self-adjust mechanism is fully released then manoeuvre the shoe and strut assembly into position and attach the handbrake cable to the lever on the trailing shoe. Engage the upper ends of both shoes with the wheel cylinder pistons, then fit the lower return spring to both shoes and ease the shoes into position on the lower anchor point.
Centralise the shoes relative to the backplate by tapping them. Refit the shoe retainer pins and secure them in position with the springs.
Locate the hub/brake drum and stub axle assembly over the brake shoes, then insert the retaining bolts and tighten to 66 Nm (49 Ibf ft).
Repeat the procedure on the remaining rear brake.
Refit the roadwheels, lower the car to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 85 Nm (63 Ibf ft). Adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst doing this, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly – a clicking sound should be emitted by the strut as the pedal is operated.
From the fully-released position, pull the handbrake lever up noting the number of clicks emitted from the handbrake ratchet mechanism. Position the handbrake lever on the sixth notch of the mechanism then slacken the adjusting nut until it rotates freely. Adjust the handbrake by tightening the adjuster nut to 4.0 Nm (3 lbf ft) then refit the gaiter
Handbrake adjusting nut
Refit the handbrake lever gaiter.