Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel- it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
Changing the wheel
The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Fold back the floor covering and lift up the cover panel, then unscrew the retainer, and lift the spare wheel out.
Unscrew the retainer, and lift the jack and wheelbrace out of the wheel well. The screw-in towing eye is also provided in the wheel well.
If necessary, use the flat end of the wheelbrace to prise off the centre cover or wheel trim to access the wheel nuts. Slacken each nut by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the nuts are too tight, DON’T stand on the wheelbrace to undo them – contact a motoring organisation for help.
20.0d Use the jacking point nearest the punctured wheel. On models with side skirts, unclip the jacking point covers.The front jacking point is 27 cm (11”) from the front end of the sill, and the rear one is 10 cm (4”) from the rear end.Locate the jack head in the jacking point (don’t jack the car anywhere else), and turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is off the ground.
Unscrew the wheel nuts, noting which way round they fit (tapered side inwards), and remove the wheel. Where a locking wheel nut is fitted, use the special adapter.
Fit the spare wheel, and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheelbrace.
Lower the car to the ground and fully tighten the wheel nuts, then refit the wheel trim or centre cover, as applicable. Have the wheel nuts tightened to 85 Nm (61 Ibf ft) at the earliest opportunity.
If a temporary space-saving spare wheel is fitted, do not exceed 50 mph.