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Battery check Ford Mondeo 2003 - 2007 Petrol 3.0

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Mondeo 2003 - 2007  | 3.0 Battery check

  • time 5 minutes
  • difficulty 1
Locate the battery
Open the battery cover
Check the Negative (-) terminal clamp is tight
Check the Positive (+) terminal clamp is tight. CAUTION If using a spanner to tighten the terminal, be careful not to short the spanner on the bodywork
Check the battery is generally secure, and if loose, tighten the battery retainer
To tighten, a 10mm socket is needed. Not too tight as you may damage the battery casing
Replace the battery cover. If you have to replace the battery or alternator, click below
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Battery removal & replacement

Removal

1 Unclip the battery cover and withdraw it from the top of the battery.
2 Slacken the clamp nut and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead, followed by the positive lead (see illustration) .
Slacken the clamp nut and disconnect the battery negative (-) lead, followed by the positive (+) lead
3 Undo the two retaining nuts and remove the battery hold-down clamp (see illustration) .
Unscrew hold-down nuts (one of two arrowed)
4 Lift out the battery – be careful, as the battery is heavy. Use the carry handle, if the battery is so equipped.
5 If required, the battery tray can also be removed. Working from above, remove the two hold-down clamp bolts, noting how they locate in the mounting bracket, and lift the tray from place.
6 Disconnect the two earth cables from the bracket. Noting how it is fitted, detach the wiring harness as necessary from the bracket. Finally, remove the three bolts securing the bracket to the inner wing, and remove the bracket completely.
7 If you are renewing the battery, make sure that you get one that’s identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities have facilities for the collection and disposal of such items – batteries contain sulphuric acid and lead, and should not be simply thrown out with the household rubbish.

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note: After the battery has been reconnected, the engine management system requires approximately 5 miles of driving to relearn its optimum settings. During this period, the engine may not perform normally.
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Alternator replacement

Removal

1 On 3.0 litre V6 ST engines, carry out the following:
  1. Detach the top of the front anti-roll bar drop link from the right-hand suspension strut (use a 5 mm Allen key to stop the balljoint turning as the nut is undone).
  2. Remove the rear through-bolt from the engine rear roll restrictor – this will allow the engine to pivot forwards, creating more room at the rear. Securely wedge the engine forwards temporarily using a piece of wood, but make sure that no pipes or hoses are being strained.
  3. Remove the rear catalytic converter heat shield nut and two bolts. Slide the heat shield towards the transmission end of the engine, then down.
2 Remove the (main) auxiliary drivebelt.
3 To create more room for the alternator to be withdrawn, disconnect the outer end of the track rod end, as follows:
4 Loosen the nut securing the steering track rod end to the steering knuckle arm. Do not remove the nut at this stage as it will protect the balljoint threads. If necessary, use an Allen key to hold the balljoint shaft while loosening the nut (see illustration) .
Slacken the nut while using an Allen key to hold the balljoint shaft...
5 Using a balljoint separator tool, release the balljoint from the steering arm (see illustration) . If the balljoint is to be re-used, take care not to damage the dust cover when using the separator tool. Fully unscrew the nut and disconnect the track rod end from the arm. Discard the nut as a new one must be used on refitting.
...then use a balljoint separator tool to release the balljoint from the steering arm
6 On V6 engines, undo the alternator upper retaining bolt and unclip the wiring harness support bracket.
7 On petrol engines, remove the two lower mounting bolts and remove the alternator out through the right-hand wheel arch (see illustration) . Note: On diesel engines the alternator mounting bolts and studs have already been removed during the drivebelt removal procedure.
Withdrawing the alternator through the right-hand front wheel arch
8 If required, undo the four retaining nuts and remove the plastic cover from the rear of the alternator.
9 If you are renewing the alternator, take the old one with you. Make sure that the new or rebuilt unit is identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals – they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at the identification markings – they will be stamped in the housing, or printed on a tag or plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure that these numbers are the same on both alternators and the pulleys are identical.

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque wrench settings.
Alternator mounting bolts/nuts 47 Nm (35 Ibf ft)
Alternator mounting studs (diesel engines) 15 Nm (11 Ibf ft)
Trackrod end nut 40 Nm (30 Ibf ft)
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