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Fluid level checks Ford Mondeo 2003 - 2007 Petrol 3.0

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Mondeo 2003 - 2007  | 3.0 Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

1.8 litre petrol engine (2.0 litre similar) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir
2.5 litre V6 engine (3.0 litre similar) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir
2.0 litre diesel engine (2.2 litre similar) A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake fluid reservoir E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir

Engine oil level

1 • Make sure that the car is on level ground.
2 •Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

3 Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used.
Engine oil grade Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30, 5W/40 or 10W/40, to Ford specification WSS-M2C913-A or -B, or to ACEA A1/B1, A2/B2, or A3/B3

Car care

4 • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil.
5 • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is located on the front of the engine (see Underbonnet Check Points for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be in the hatched area, between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap, located on top of the engine, towards the rear on all except V6 engines.Unscrew and remove the cap. Top-up the level, adding only a small amount of oil at a time. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill. If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil changes are the most important preventive maintenance the DIY home mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the car. To avoid any possibility of scalding and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.
3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Where applicable, remove the engine undershield.
4 Remove the oil filler cap, then unscrew the engine oil drain plug (located at the rear of the sump) about half a turn. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely – recover the sealing washer (see illustration and Haynes Hint) .
HINT: Keep the plug pressed into the sumpwhile unscrewing it by hand the lastcouple of turns. As the plug releasesfrom the threads, move it away sharply,so the stream of oil issuing from thesump runs into the pan, not up yoursleeve.
Removing the engine oil drain plug (2.0 litre engine)
5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
6 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.
Engine oil drain plug:
  1.8 and 2.0 litre engines 28 Nm (21 Ibf ft)
  2.5 and 3.0 litre engines 26 Nm (19 Ibf ft)
7 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front side of the cylinder block.

1.8 and 2.0 litre engines

8 Unscrew the oil filter plastic cover from the bottom of the oil filter housing, then remove and discard the paper element (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the oil filter plastic cover . . .
. . . then remove and discard the paper element (2.0 litre engine)
9 Remove the O-ring seal and obtain a new one (see illustration) . Clean the filter housing and cover.
Removing the O-ring seal from the bottom cover (2.0 litre engine)
10 Fit the new O-ring seal onto the cover and lubricate it with a little engine oil (see illustration) .
Lubricate the new O-ring seal with a little engine oil (2.0 litre engine)
11 Locate the new paper element on the cover, then screw the assembly into the filter housing and tighten securely by hand (see illustration) . Where necessary, refit the splash guard under the engine.
Oil filter location (2.0 litre engine)

V6 engines

12 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil in the old filter into the container.
Using a chain-type wrench to remove the oil filter (V6 engine)
13 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
14 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine (see illustration) . Tighten the filter firmly by hand only – do not use any tools. Where necessary, refit the splash guard under the engine.
Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine (V6 engine)

All engines

15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground.
16 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil. An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.
Engine oil quantity:
  1.8 and 2.0 litre engines 4.3 litres
  2.5 and 3.0 litre engines 5.7 litres
Engine oil grade Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30, 5W/40 or 10W/40, to Ford specification WSS-M2C913-A or -B, or to ACEA A1/B1, A2/B2, or A3/B3
17 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up.
18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

6 • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
7 • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine, and is visible through the expansion tank. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX mark on the side . . .
. . . and the MIN mark on the front of the reservoir. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant is up to the MAX mark. Use antifreeze of the same type (and colour) as that which is already in the system. Refit the cap securely. Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury. If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine is not running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and loose clothing well clear when working in the engine compartment.

Cooling system draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure.
1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap. Place a thick cloth over the expansion tank cap, then turn the cap anti‑clockwise as far as the first stop and wait for any pressure to be released, then depress it and turn it further anti‑clockwise to remove it.
2 If additional working clearance is required, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands.
3 Remove the radiator undershield, then place a large drain tray underneath, and unscrew the radiator drain plug (see illustration) . Allow the coolant to drain into the tray. On completion, retighten the drain plug and refit the undershield. Where necessary, lower the car to the ground.
Radiator drain plug (shown with radiator removed)

Cooling system flushing

4 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
5 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

6 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
7 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
8 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

9 Remove the thermostat then, if the radiator top hose has been disconnected from the engine, temporarily reconnect the hose.
10 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
11 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses.

Antifreeze mixture

12 Ford state that, if the only antifreeze used is the type with which the system was first filled at the factory it will last the lifetime of the car. This is subject to it being used in the recommended concentration, unmixed with any other type of antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when necessary using only that antifreeze mixed with clean water. If any other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no longer applies; to restore the lifetime protection, the system must be drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh coolant mixture is poured in.
Anti-freeze type Motorcraft Super Plus 2000 antifreeze to Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D
13 If the car’s history (and therefore the quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, owners who wish to follow Ford’s recommendations are advised to drain and thoroughly reverse-flush the system, before refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left for the life of the car.
14 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every three years.
15 To give the recommended standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40% (by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with 60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio.
16 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. Fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system.
17 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. If topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is permissible, purely for convenience.

Cooling system filling

18 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components.
19 Slowly fill the system until the coolant level reaches the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank (see Haynes Hint) .
HINT: It is rare to ever drain the cooling system completely – a small quantity will remain.If the system has been extensively flushed with clean water,this remaining quantity will in fact be plain water. For this reason, some people will first fill the system with the required quantity of neat antifreeze (half the total system capacity, for a 50%mixture), and then complete the filling process with plain water. This ensures that the resulting coolant (once it has mixed inside the engine) is not ‘diluted’by old coolant or water remaining in the system.

1.8 and 2.0 litre engine models

20 With the filler cap not fitted, start the engine and run it at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds – this will prime the heater circuit.
21 Switch off the engine, then fill the expansion tank to 15 mm over the MAX mark.
22 Refit the filler cap, then start the engine and run it at 2500 rpm for 8 minutes, or until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
23 Maintain the engine speed at 2500 rpm for a further 3 minutes, then increase the engine speed to 4000 rpm for 5 seconds.
24 Decrease the engine speed to 2500 rpm for 3 minutes and switch off the engine.
25 Check the cooling system for leaks, then allow the engine to cool for at least 30 minutes.
26 Remove the filler cap and top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark on the expansion tank.

V6 engine models

27 Refit expansion tank filler cap.
28 Start the engine and allow it to idle until it reaches its normal operating temperature.
29 Allow the engine to idle for a further 5 min-utes, then switch it off.
30 Allow the engine to cool for at least 30 min-utes.
31 Remove the filler cap and top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark on the expansion tank.


32 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly.
33 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant hose which is full of air feels quite different to one full of coolant, when squeezed. After refilling the system, most airlocks will clear once the system has cooled, and been topped-up.
34 While the engine is running at operating temperature, switch on the heater and heater fan, and check for heat output. Provided there is sufficient coolant in the system, any lack of heat output could be due to an airlock in the system.
35 Airlocks can have more serious effects than simply reducing heater output – a severe airlock could reduce coolant flow around the engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot when the engine is at operating temperature – a top hose which stays cold could be the result of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat).
36 If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or loosening the hose clips and squeezing the hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the worst case, the system will have to be at least partially drained (this time, the coolant can be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the problem.

Pressure cap check

37 Clean the pressure cap (expansion tank), and inspect the seal inside the cap for damage or deterioration. If there is any sign of damage or deterioration to the seal, fit a new pressure cap. If the cap is old, it is worth considering fitting a new one for peace of mind – they are not expensive. If the pressure cap fails, excess pressure will be allowed into the system, which may result in the failure of hoses, the radiator, or the heater matrix.

Screen wash fluid level

Note: The underbonnet reservoir also serves the tailgate washer, and the headlight washers, where fitted.
8 • Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system – this may damage the paintwork.
The screen washer fluid reservoir filler neck is located in the right-hand front corner of the engine compartment, behind the headlight. The fluid level is checked by removing the filler cap and checking the dipstick (where fitted) which is attached to the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwash additive in the quantities recommended on the bottle. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.
To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, then squeeze the locking clip, and detach the blade from the arm. When fitting the new blade, make sure that the blade locks securely into the arm, and that the blade is orientated correctly.
Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well (where applicable). Remove the blade using a similar technique to the windscreen wiper blades.

Brake and clutch* fluid level

9 * The brake fluid reservoir also supplies fluid to the clutch master cylinder on manual transmission models.
Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start

10 • Make sure that the car is on level ground.
11 • Cleanliness is of great importance when dealing with the braking system, so take care to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid.

Safety first!

12 • If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the brake or clutch system, which should be investigated immediately.
13 • If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
HINT: The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark.
The brake fluid reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment (left as seen from the driver’s seat).
The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system, then unscrew and remove the reservoir cap. Inspect the reservoir – the fluid should be changed if it appears to be dark, or if dirt is visible.
Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use only DOT 4 fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

14 • The level should be checked when the engine is cold (ie, before the car is driven), with the wheels pointing straight ahead.
15 • For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Safety first!

16 • The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.
The fluid level is visible through the reservoir body. The level should be up to the MAX mark on the side of the reservoir.
If topping-up is required, wipe clean the area around the reservoir filler neck and unscrew the filler cap from the reservoir.
When topping-up, use the specified type of fluid and do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.
Power steering fluid Hydraulic fluid to Ford specification WSS-M2C204-A