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Brakes, suspension & tyres Ford Mondeo 2007 - 2012 Diesel 1.8 TDCi

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Mondeo 2007 - 2012  | 1.8 TDCi Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable, you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs & pads
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface, it's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the pad renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points listed below. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver and a pair of grips to carefully prise off the caliper spring plate
Prise out the upper . . .
. . . and lower rubber caps . . .
. . . then unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide bolts
Release the brake hydraulic hose from the bracket on the suspension strut
Slide the caliper and inner pad from the disc
Pull the inner brake pad from the caliper piston . . .
. . . and lift the outer pad from the caliper bracket
Measure the thickness of the pad’s friction material. If it’s 2.0 mm or less, renew all the front pads
Clean the pad mounting surfaces with a wire brush
If you’re fitting new pads, push the piston back into the caliper using a piston retraction tool or G-clamp
Fit the outer pad to the caliper mounting bracket . . .
. . . then fit the inner pad to the caliper piston
Slide the caliper, with the inner pad fitted, over the disc and outer pad
Refit the caliper guide bolts and tighten them to 28 Nm (21 Ibf ft)
Press the rubber caps into position
Refit the brake hydraulic hose to the suspension strut bracket
Use a pair of grips to compress the caliper spring plate . . .
. . . and push the spring plate tabs fully into the holes in the caliper
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing plate. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage.
5 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel. Close the bleed screw just before the caliper piston is pushed fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air enters the hydraulic system. Note: The ABS unit contains hydraulic components that are very sensitive to impurities in the brake fluid. Even the smallest particles can cause the system to fail through blockage. The pad retraction method described here prevents any debris in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic unit, as well as preventing any chance of damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft).
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Front suspension strut replacement

Note: Ford special tool 204-607 (or a compatible alternative) will be needed to separate the lower arm balljoint shank from the swivel hub.

Removal

1 In order to remove the windscreen cowl panel, both wiper arms must be removed. Operate the wiper motor, then switch it off so that the wiper arms return to the park position.
2 Before removing the wiper arms, mark their parked positions on the glass with strips of adhesive tape.
3 Prise up the wiper arm spindle nut cover, then slacken and remove the spindle nut (see illustrations) . Recover the washer.
Prise up the wiper arm spindle nut cover...
...then remove the retaining nut and washer
4 Lift the blade off the glass, and pull the wiper arm off its spindle. Note that on some models, the wiper arms may be very tight on the spindle splines – it should be possible to lever the arm off the spindle, using a flat-bladed screwdriver (take care not to damage the windscreen cowl panel). In extreme cases, it may even be necessary to use a small puller to free the arm (see illustration) .
If necessary, use a small puller to free the wiper arm
5 Extract the three fasteners and remove the plastic panel above the wing on both sides (see illustrations) .
Extract the 3 fasteners...
...and remove the plastic panel above the wing on both sides
6 Unscrew the cowl panel retaining screws, lift the panel away from the windscreen at the top and remove the panel from the car (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the cowl panel retaining screws...
...lift the panel away from the windscreen at the top....
...and remove the panel from the car
7 Extract the plastic rivet and unclip the plastic panel over the suspension strut top mounting (see illustration) .
Extract the plastic rivet and unclip the plastic panel over the suspension strut top mounting
8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the relevant front roadwheel.
9 On vehicles with dynamic suspension, disconnect the suspension strut wiring connector, and release the wiring grommets from the suspension strut and underbody brackets.
10 Release the brake hydraulic hose from the suspension strut bracket (see illustration) .
Release the brake hydraulic hose from the suspension strut bracket
11 Unscrew and remove the nut securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the suspension strut, while holding the link stub with an Allen key. Lift off the wheel speed sensor wiring harness support bracket, release the link from the strut and move it to one side (see illustrations) . Note that a new nut will be required.
Unscrew the nut securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the strut, while holding the link stub with an Allen key
Lift off the wiring harness support bracket, then release the link from the strut
12 The design of the lower arm balljoint and swivel hub assembly is such that using a conventional balljoint separator tool to release the balljoint shank from the swivel hub is likely to damage the balljoint rubber boot. It is therefore necessary to use Ford special tool 204-607 (or a compatible alternative) to separate the balljoint shank from the hub as follows (see illustration) .
Ford special tool 204-607 used for separating the lower arm balljoint from the swivel hub
13 Unscrew the lower arm balljoint retaining nut two turns, then undo and remove the lower bolt securing the brake caliper mounting bracket to the swivel hub (see illustration) . Bolt the special tool to the caliper mounting bracket and position the other end of the tool under, and in contact with, the steering arm on the swivel hub. Unscrew the lower arm balljoint retaining nut until it contacts the special tool, then continue unscrewing the nut to release the balljoint shank taper from the swivel hub.
Undo and remove the lower bolt securing the brake caliper mounting bracket to the swivel hub
14 Once the balljoint shank taper releases, fully unscrew the retaining nut, then remove the special tool. Refit the caliper mounting bracket lower retaining bolt and tighten it to 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft).
15 Lever down the lower arm to free the balljoint from the swivel hub (see illustration) , then move the swivel hub to one side, taking care not to damage the balljoint rubber boot.
Home-made method of releasing the lower arm - wood block, long pole and length of chain
16 Undo and remove the bolt securing the swivel hub to the suspension strut (see illustration) .
Remove the bolt securing the swivel hug to the suspension strut
17 Insert a suitable Allen key into the gap and turn the Allen key slightly to spread the swivel hub where it clamps onto the lower end of the suspension strut (see illustration) . Alternatively, tap a chisel into the gap to spread the swivel hub.
Use an Allen key to spread the swivel hub where it clamps the lower end of the suspension strut
18 Using a soft-faced mallet, tap the swivel hub assembly down and off the end of the suspension strut (see illustration) .
Tap the swivel hub assembly down and off the suspension strut
19 With the help of an assistant, support the strut from under the wheel arch then, working in the engine compartment, unscrew the three suspension strut top mounting bolts. Remove the strut from under the wheel arch (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the three suspension strut top mounting bolts (arrowed) . . .
. . . then remove the strut from under the wheel arch

Refitting

20 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points:
  1. Ensure that the swivel hub is fully entered in the suspension strut, and that the lug at the rear of the strut is engaged with the gap in the swivel hub (see illustration).
  2. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the lug at the rear of the strut is engaged with the gap in the swivel hub
Anti-roll bar link upper nut* 60 Nm (44 Ibf ft)
Roadwheel nuts 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft)
Suspension strut:
  To swivel hub 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft)
  Upper mounting to body 35 Nm (26 Ibf ft)
*Do not re-use
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
Check condition of the rear brake discs
Locate rear brake pads
Measure brake pad wear thickness. If it is less than 2.0mm, all rear pads need replacement. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of rear brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and securely support it on axle stands. Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the pad renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points listed below. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. Note that if the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that they are identified so that they can be returned to their original positions.
Unscrew the lower guide pin bolt while counter-holding the guide pin with a second spanner . . .
. . . then remove the guide pin bolt from the caliper
Unscrew the upper guide pin bolt in the same way until the caliper is released from the mounting bracket . . .
. . . but note that it is not possible to completely remove the upper guide pin bolt (arrowed)
Lift the caliper off the mounting bracket and suspend it from a suitable place under the wheel arch using a cable-tie or similar
Remove the outer pad . . .
. . . and inner pad from the caliper mounting bracket
Remove the lower guide plate . . .
. . . and upper guide plate from the caliper mounting bracket
Measure the thickness of the pad’s friction material. If it’s 1.5 mm or less, renew all the rear pads
Using a caliper retracting tool to retract the piston as far as the stop
Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper, piston and mounting bracket
Refit the lower guide plate . . .
. . . and upper guide plate to the caliper mounting bracket
Fit the inner pad to the caliper mounting bracket
If present, remove the adhesive foil from the pad backing plate, then fit the outer pad to the caliper mounting bracket
Slide the caliper into position in the mounting bracket
Refit the upper guide pin bolt . . .
. . . followed by the lower guide pin bolt . . .
. . . and tighten them both to 35 Nm (26 Ibf ft)
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing plate. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide pins are a snug fit in the caliper mounting bracket. Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage.
5 If new brake pads are to be fitted, it will be necessary to retract the piston fully into the caliper bore by rotating it in a clockwise direction. This can be achieved by using sturdy circlip pliers, noting that as well as being turned, the piston has to be pressed in very firmly. Special tools are readily available to achieve this with less effort. While the caliper is being retracted, clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel. Close the bleed screw just before the caliper piston is pushed fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air enters the hydraulic system. Note: The ABS unit contains hydraulic components that are very sensitive to impurities in the brake fluid. Even the smallest particles can cause the system to fail through blockage. The pad retraction method described here prevents any debris in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic unit, as well as preventing any chance of damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft).
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear shock absorber replacement

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
2 Place a trolley jack under the hub carrier and raise the suspension a little to take the load off the shock absorber.
3 On vehicles with dynamic suspension, disconnect the shock absorber wiring connector, and release the wiring harness from the retaining clips.
4 Undo the two bolts securing the upper end of the shock absorber to the vehicle body (see illustration) .
Shock absorber upper mounting bolts (arrowed)
5 Undo the lower mounting bolt, and pull the shock absorber from the hub carrier (see illustration).
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt (arrowed)
6 Check the condition of the shock absorber and renew as necessary.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
Shock absorber: Nm Ibf ft
  Lower mounting bolt:
    With standard suspension 175 129
    With self-levelling suspension 280 207
  Upper mounting bolts 30 22
Roadwheel nuts 140 103
Check the rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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