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Brakes, suspension & tyres Ford Transit 2000 - 2006 Diesel 2.0

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Transit 2000 - 2006  | 2.0 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 0.5 hours
  • difficulty 2
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable, you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check condition of brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs & pads
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface, it's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Note: A new caliper lower guide pin bolt will be required for refitting.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points given in the following paragraphs. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. Note that if the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that they are identified so that they can be returned to their original positions.
Unscrew the caliper lower guide pin bolt while counterholding the guide pin with a spanner. Ford insist that a new guide pin bolt is fitted.
Pivot the brake caliper upwards . . .
. . . and secure it in the raised position using a cable tie
Lift the inner and outer brake pads off the caliper mounting bracket
Measure the thickness of the pad friction material. If any are worn down to 1.5 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads must be renewed
Apply a little high-melting-point copper brake grease to the pad backing plate contact areas
If new pads are to be fitted, before refitting the caliper, push back the caliper pistons whilst temporarily opening the bleed screw. This is to prevent any dirt/debris being forced back up the hydraulic circuit in the ABSmodulator
Fit the new brake pads to the caliper, ensuring that the friction material is facing the brake disc. Note that the inner pad is the one fitted with the wear indicator strip
As the pads are fitted, ensure that the anti-rattle spring correctly engages with the mounting bracket
Pivot the caliper down over the pads and fit the new guide pin bolt
Tighten the guide pin bolt to 32 Nm (24 Ibf ft) while counterholding the guide pin
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing plate. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide pins are a snug fit in the caliper mounting bracket. Inspect the dust seals around the pistons for damage, and the pistons for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attention to any of these components is necessary.
5 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper pistons must be pushed back into the cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the pistons are retracted, the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel. Close the bleed screw just before the caliper pistons are pushed fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air enters the hydraulic system.
Note: The ABS unit contains hydraulic components that are very sensitive to impurities in the brake fluid. Even the smallest particles can cause the system to fail through blockage. The pad retraction method described here prevents any debris in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic unit, as well as preventing any chance of damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft).
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Front suspension strut replacement

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
2 On vehicles with a solid anti-roll bar connecting link, undo the retaining bolt and release the brake hose and ABS wiring harness support bracket from the strut (see illustration) .
Undo the bolt (arrowed) and release the brake hose and ABS wiring harness support bracket from the strut
3 On vehicles with a balljoint anti-roll bar connecting link, undo the retaining nut and bolt and release the ABS wiring harness support bracket from the strut. Unscrew the nut and detach the anti-roll bar connecting link from the strut bracket. If necessary, use a 5 mm Allen key to hold the spindle while the nut is unscrewed.
4 Undo the two bolts securing the brake caliper mounting bracket to the steering knuckle. Slide the caliper and mounting bracket, complete with brake pads, off the disc and suspend the assembly from a suitable place under the wheel arch using a cable tie.
5 Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt securing the steering knuckle assembly to the front suspension strut (see illustration) . Prise open the clamp using a wedge-shaped tool and release the knuckle from the strut. If necessary, tap the knuckle downwards with a soft-headed mallet to separate the two components.
Unscrew the pinch bolt securing the steering knuckle to the front suspension strut
6 If the right-hand strut is being removed, detach and remove the floor covering at the right-hand side of the footwell.

Left-hand strut

7 In order to remove the left-hand strut, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) must be removed.
Caution: The PCM is fragile. Take care not to drop it or subject it to any other kind of impact, and do not subject it to extremes of temperature, or allow it to get wet. Do not touch the PCM terminals as there is a chance that static electricity may damage the internal electronic components.
8 Move the driver’s seat fully forward, open the battery box cover and disconnect the battery negative terminal.
9 With the wipers ‘parked’ (ie, in the normal at-rest position), mark the position of the blades on the windscreen/rear window, using a wax crayon or strips of masking tape.
10 Lift up the plastic cap from the bottom of the wiper arm, and loosen the nut one or two turns (see illustration) .
Lift up the plastic cap from the bottom of the wiper arm, and slacken the nut one or two turns
11 Lift the wiper arm and release it from the taper on the spindle by easing it from side to side. If necessary, use a puller to release it.
12 Completely remove the nut and withdraw the wiper arm from the spindle.
13 Extract the screw covers and unscrew the four windscreen cowl panel trim upper retaining screws (see illustrations) .
Extract the screw covers...
...and unscrew the windscreen cowl panel upper retaining screws
14 Open and support the bonnet, then remove the bonnet weatherstrip from the cowl panel trim. Undo the retaining screw now exposed, at each end of the trim (see illustration) .
Remove the bonnet weatherstrip from the cowl panel trim and undo the retaining screw at each end
15 On vehicles with common rail injection, detach the heat shield from the cowl panel.
16 Disconnect the windscreen washer hose, then remove the hose from the cowl panel.
17 Release the retaining clips and remove the cowl panel trim from the cowl panel.
18 Using a forked tool, extract the two retaining clips and detach the water drain tube from the cowl panel (see illustration) .
Extract the two retaining clips and detach the water drain tube from the cowl panel
19 Undo the screw each side securing the A-pillar exterior trim to the body (see illustration) .
Undo the screw each side securing the A-pillar exterior trim to the body
20 Unscrew the windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket retaining bolt from the cowl panel (see illustration) .
Unscrew the wiper motor mounting bracket retaining bolt from the cowl panel
21 Unscrew the two bolts at each side, and the bolts along the top and remove the cowl panel from the body (see illustrations) .
Unscrew the two bolts at each side...
...and the bolts along the top, then remove the cowl panel
22 Drill out the rivets and remove the PCM security shield from the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration) .
Drill out the rivets (arrowed) . . .
. . . and remove the PCM security shield from the engine compartment bulkhead
23 Undo the retaining bolt and disconnect the PCM multiplug (see illustrations) .
Undo the retaining bolt (arrowed) . . .
. . . and disconnect the PCM multiplug
24 Undo the two PCM retaining plate nuts, and remove the retaining plate (see illustrations) .
Undo the two PCM retaining plate nuts (arrowed) . . .
. . . and remove the retaining plate
25 Remove the intermediate plate, then withdraw the PCM from its location (see illustrations) .
Remove the intermediate plate . . .
. . . then withdraw the PCM from its location
    Ensure that the intermediate plate is refitted with the direction arrow pointing upward
    26 Now lift up and remove the storage tray from the top of the facia (see illustration) . Detach and remove the floor covering as necessary
    Remove the storage tray from the top of the facia

    Both struts

    27 Have an assistant support the strut from under the wheel arch. Undo the three upper mounting nuts, then lower the strut and remove it from under the vehicle (see illustration) . If working on the right-hand strut, access to the nuts is from inside the vehicle in the right-hand side footwell. If working on the left-hand strut, access to mounting nuts is from inside the vehicle, working through the storage tray aperture in the top of the facia.
    Front suspension strut upper mounting nuts (arrowed)

    Refitting

    28 Lift the suspension strut into position and insert the upper mounting studs through the holes in the body.
    29 Screw on the upper mounting retaining nuts and tighten them to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft).
    30 Thoroughly clean the bottom end of the suspension strut and its location in the steering knuckle. Locate the strut onto the knuckle and over the tab, then insert the pinch-bolt and tighten it to 90 Nm (66 Ibf ft).
    31 If the left-hand strut is being refitted, refit the powertrain control module (PCM), the storage tray to the facia and the windscreen cowl panel. Reattach the floor covering as necessary.
    32 If the right-hand strut is being refitted, reattach the floor covering at the right-hand side of the footwell.
    33 Slide the brake caliper assembly over the disc and into position on the steering knuckle. Refit the two mounting bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to 175 Nm (129 Ibf ft).
    34 On vehicles with a balljoint anti-roll bar connecting link, refit the ABS wiring harness support bracket to the strut and securely tighten the retaining bolt and nut. Attach the anti-roll bar connecting link to the strut bracket and tighten the retaining nut to 56 Nm (41 Ibf ft). If necessary, use a 5 mm Allen key to hold the spindle while the nut is tightened.
    35 On vehicles with a solid anti-roll bar connecting link, refit the brake hose and ABS wiring harness support bracket to the strut, and securely tighten the retaining bolt.
    36 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft).
    It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
    This model has drum brakes. The minimum brake shoe wear thickness is 1.0mm. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
    - Close + Open

    Rear brake shoes replacement

    Warning: Brake shoes must be renewed on BOTH rear wheels at the same time – NEVER renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. The dust created as the shoes wear may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.

    Removal

    1 It may be necessary to remove the brake drum and rear hub as an assembly if the drum is severely corroded in position. Due to the extremely high tightening torque of the hub retaining nut, take great care when removing and refitting the nut. Use only the correct sockets and make sure you have a suitable extension bar for removal, and a torque wrench capable of tightening the nut to the correct setting for refitting. Entrust this work to a dealer or suitably-equipped garage if in doubt about the procedure, or if the required tools are not available.
    Note: A new rear hub retaining nut may be required for refitting.
    2 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel and release the handbrake.
    3 Where fitted, remove the brake drum retaining clip from the roadwheel stud.
    4 It should now be possible to withdraw the brake drum from the wheel hub by tapping the rear of the drum with a soft-faced mallet to free it from the hub. In practice, the build-up of corrosion on the mating surfaces of the drum and hub often make it impossible to remove the drum in this way. If so, unscrew the rear hub retaining nut, collect the washer, then withdraw the brake drum and rear hub as an assembly, off the stub axle (see illustrations) .
    Withdraw the brake drum from the wheel hub
    If the drum is corroded to the hub, unscrew the hub retaining nut . . .
    . . . collect the washer . . .
    . . . then withdraw the brake drum and rear hub, as an assembly, off the stub axle
    5 If the drum and hub were removed together as an assembly, measure the diameter of the hub retaining nut flange. The diameter will be either 44 mm, or 51 mm. Obtain a new hub retaining nut of the appropriate size for refitting.
    6 If necessary, separate the brake drum from the hub using a hydraulic press.
    7 Working carefully and taking the necessary precautions, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
    8 Measure the thickness of the brake shoe friction material at several points. If any are worn down to 1.0 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four shoes must be renewed
    9 Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 4.4a to 4.4w) for the actual brake shoe renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points given in the following paragraphs. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
    Prior to disturbing the brake shoes, note the correct fitted locations of all components, paying particular attention to the adjuster strut components
    Remove the brake shoe retainer spring cups by depressing and turning them through 90º. With the cup removed, lift off the spring and withdraw the retainer pin
    Prise the upper ends of the brake shoes apart and ease them away from the wheel cylinder pistons
    Similarly spread the lower ends of the brake shoes apart and release them from the abutment bracket on the backplate
    Turn the assembly over, compress the spring and unhook the handbrake cable from the lever on the trailing shoe
    With the assembly on the bench, remove the lower return spring . . .
    . . . adjuster strut . . .
    . . . upper return spring . . .
    . . . and the adjuster lever
    Thoroughly clean the backplate, then apply a smear of high-melting-point brake grease to the contact surfaces
    Dismantle and clean the adjuster strut then set the adjuster position according to model (see text)
    Locate the adjuster lever in the slot in the leading shoe peg . . .
    . . . then engage the adjuster strut with leading shoe and adjuster lever
    Fit the straight end of the upper return spring to the adjuster lever . . .
    . . . then insert the coiled end of the spring in the trailing shoe slot
    Spread the shoes apart and locate the adjuster strut in the cut-out in the handbrake lever
    Fit the end of the lower return spring with the most coils to the leading shoe . . .
    . . . and the end with the least coils to the trailing shoe
    Pull back the spring and connect the handbrake cable to the lever on the trailing shoe
    Position the assembled brake shoes on the backplate and engage the lower end of the leading shoe with the abutment bracket
    Spread the shoes apart and engage the lower end of the trailing shoe with the abutment bracket
    Pull the upper ends of the brake shoes apart and engage them with the wheel cylinder pistons
    Insert the brake shoe retainer spring pins, then refit the retainer springs and cups
    10 Prior to refitting the adjuster strut, turn the forked end of the adjuster, so that the distance between the end of the strut and the adjuster wheel is 7 to 7.5 mm for front wheel drive models, and 9.5 to 10 mm for rear wheel drive models.
    11 If the drum was removed leaving the rear hub in position, slide the drum over the roadwheel studs and onto the hub. Where applicable, refit the brake drum retaining clip to the roadwheel stud.
    12 If the drum was removed complete with the rear hub, slide the hub and drum assembly into position over the stub axle. Fit the washer and a new hub retaining nut, then tighten the nut to the specified torque in the five stages specified.
    Rear hub retaining nut Nm Ibf ft
      44 mm flange diameter nut:
        Stage 1 Rotate the hub 5 times
        Stage 2 200 148
        Stage 3 Rotate the hub 5 times
        Stage 4 300 221
        Stage 5 Rotate the hub 5 times
      51 mm flange diameter nut:
        Stage 1 Rotate the hub 5 times
        Stage 2 200 148
        Stage 3 Rotate the hub 5 times
        Stage 4 450 332
        Stage 5 Rotate the hub 5 times
    13 With the handbrake fully released, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed.
    14 With the lining-to-drum clearance set, check and, if necessary, adjust the handbrake.
    15 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft).
    16 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake.
    Caution: New brake shoes will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after shoe renewal.
    Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
    - Close + Open

    Rear shock absorber replacement

    Removal

    1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands.
    2 Support the rear axle with a trolley jack.
    3 Undo the retaining nut, and withdraw the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (see illustration) .
    Rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt retaining nut (arrowed) . . .
    4 Unscrew the upper mounting bolt and remove the shock absorber (see illustration) .
    . . . and upper mounting bolt
    5 To test the shock absorber for efficiency, grip the upper or lower mounting eye in a vice, and then pump the piston repeatedly through its full stroke. If the resistance is weak or is felt to be uneven, the shock absorber is defective and must be renewed. It must also be renewed if it is leaking fluid. It is advisable to renew both rear shock absorbers at the same time, or the handling characteristics of the vehicle could be adversely affected.

    Refitting

    6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the bolts/nuts are tightened to the specified torque.
    Roadwheel nuts 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft)
    Shock absorber lower mounting bolt/nut 90 Nm (66 Ibf ft)
    Shock absorber upper mounting bolt/nut 150 Nm (111 Ibf ft)
    Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Seek advice should you any detect leakage and/or serious damage to the components
    Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
    Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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