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Brakes, suspension & tyres Ford Transit 2006 - 2013 Diesel 2.2

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Ford Transit 2006 - 2013  | 2.2 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. A very slight play may be felt, which is OK, but if the movement is appreciable you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check the condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs and pads
Now locate the brake pads. There are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface. It's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Note: A new caliper lower guide pin bolt will be required for refitting.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points given in the following paragraphs. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. Note that if the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that they are identified so that they can be returned to their original positions.
Unscrew the lower guide pin bolt while counter-holding the guide pin with a second spanner...
...then remove the guide pin bolt from the caliper
Pivot the caliper upwards...
...and secure it in position using wire or a cable tie
Disconnect the brake pad wear indicator wiring at the connector on the suspension strut
Lift out the inner brake pad...
...and the outer brake pad
Remove the anti-rattle springs from the caliper mounting bracket, noting their fitted positions
Measure the thickness of the pad friction material. If any are worn down to 1.5 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads must be renewed
If new pads are to be fitted, push the piston fully back into the caliper body, whilst opening the bleed screw. This is to prevent any dirt/debris being forced back up the hydraulic circuit into the ABS modulator
Refit the anti-rattle springs to the caliper mounting bracket
Transfer the brake pad wear indicator to the new inner brake pad
If present, remove the protective backing from the rear of the brake pads
Apply a smear of high-temperature silicone lubricant to the contact area of the pad backing plate
Place the outer pad in position...
...followed by the inner pad
Lower the caliper back into position over the brake pads
Fit the new lower guide pin bolt...
...and tighten it to 60 Nm (44 Ibf ft)
Reconnect the brake pad wear indicator wiring connector
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing plate. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide pins are a snug fit in the caliper mounting bracket. Inspect the dust seals around the pistons for damage, and the pistons for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage.
5 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper pistons must be pushed back into the cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the pistons are retracted, the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel (see illustration 3.2j) . Close the bleed screw just before the caliper pistons are pushed fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air enters the hydraulic system.
Note: The ABS unit contains hydraulic components that are very sensitive to impurities in the brake fluid. Even the smallest particles can cause the system to fail through blockage. The pad retraction method described here prevents any debris in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic unit, as well as preventing any chance of damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (147 Ibf ft).
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Front suspension strut replacement

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
2 On vehicles with ABS, undo the retaining nut and release the ABS wiring harness support bracket from the strut (see illustration) .
Undo the retaining nut (arrowed) and release the ABS wiring harness support bracket from the strut
3 Unscrew the nut and detach the anti-roll bar connecting link from the strut bracket. If necessary, use a 5 mm Allen key to hold the spindle while the nut is unscrewed.
4 Undo the two bolts securing the brake caliper mounting bracket to the steering knuckle (see illustration) . Slide the caliper and mounting bracket, complete with brake pads, off the disc and suspend the assembly from a suitable place under the wheel arch using a cable tie.
Slide the caliper and mounting bracket, complete with brake pads, off the disc
5 Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt and nut securing the steering knuckle assembly to the front suspension strut (see illustration) . Discard the nut and bolt as new ones must be used for refitting. Prise open the clamp using a wedge-shaped tool and release the knuckle from the strut. If necessary, tap the knuckle downwards with a soft-headed mallet to separate the two components.
Unscrew the pinch bolt securing the steering knuckle to the front suspension strut

Right-hand suspension strut

6 From inside the car, remove the facia right-hand lower trim panel by pulling it away from the facia to release the retaining clips (see illustration) .
Remove the facia trim panel by pulling it away to release the retaining clips

Left-hand suspension strut

7 Open the glovebox lid, then press in the tab at each upper side of the lid and lower the lid fully (see illustration) .
Press in the tab at each upper side of the glovebox lid and lower the lid fully
8 Disengage the hinges at the base of the glovebox lid and remove the lid (see illustration) .
Disengage the hinges at the base of the glovebox lid and remove the lid

Both suspension struts

9 Working on the side concerned, cut through the floor covering using a sharp knife just above the suspension strut upper mounting. Fold back the floor covering as necessary for access to the strut upper mounting nuts (see illustrations) .
Cut through the floor covering using a sharp knife just above the suspension strut upper mounting
Fold back the floor covering for access to the strut upper mounting nuts (arrowed)
10 Have an assistant support the strut from under the wheel arch. Undo the three upper mounting nuts, then lower the strut and remove it from under the vehicle.

Refitting

11 Lift the suspension strut into position and insert the upper mounting studs through the holes in the body.
12 Screw on the upper mounting retaining nuts and tighten them to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft).
13 Place the floor covering back into position then refit the glovebox lid or facia right-hand lower trim panel, as applicable.
14 Thoroughly clean the bottom end of the suspension strut and its location in the steering knuckle. Locate the strut onto the knuckle and over the tab, then insert the pinch-bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
Suspension strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt: Nm Ibf ft
  Stage 1 100 74
  Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 180°
15 Slide the brake caliper assembly over the disc and into position on the steering knuckle. Refit the two mounting bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to 175 Nm (129 Ibf ft).
16 Refit the ABS wiring harness support bracket to the strut and securely tighten the retaining nut. Attach the anti-roll bar connecting link to the strut bracket and tighten the retaining nut to 55 Nm (41 Ibf ft). If necessary, use a 5 mm Allen key to hold the spindle while the nut is tightened.
17 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (148 Ibf ft).
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
This model has drum brakes. The minimum brake shoe wear thickness is 1.0mm. If you need to replace the rear shoes, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake shoes replacement

Warning: Brake shoes must be renewed on BOTH rear wheels at the same time – NEVER renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. The dust created as the shoes wear may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Caution: It may be necessary to remove the brake drum and rear hub as an assembly if the drum is severely corroded in position. Due to the extremely high tightening torque of the hub retaining nut, take great care when removing and refitting the nut. Use only the correct sockets and make sure you have a suitable extension bar for removal, and a torque wrench capable of tightening the nut to the correct setting (up to 450 Nm) for refitting. Entrust this work to a dealer or suitably-equipped garage if in doubt about the procedure, or if the required tools are not available.
Note: A new rear hub retaining nut may be required for refitting.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel and release the handbrake.
2 Where fitted, remove the brake drum retaining clip from the roadwheel stud.
3 It should now be possible to withdraw the brake drum from the wheel hub by tapping the rear of the drum with a soft-faced mallet to free it from the hub. In practice, the build-up of corrosion on the mating surfaces of the drum and hub often make it impossible to remove the drum in this way. If so, unscrew the rear hub retaining nut, collect the washer, then withdraw the brake drum and rear hub as an assembly, off the stub axle (see illustrations) .
Withdraw the brake drum from the wheel hub
If the drum is corroded to the hub, unscrew the hub retaining nut...
...collect the washer...
...then withdraw the brake drum and rear hub, as an assembly, off the stub axle
4 If the drum and hub were removed together as an assembly, measure the diameter of the hub retaining nut flange. The diameter will be either 44 mm, or 51 mm. Obtain a new hub retaining nut of the appropriate size for refitting.
5 Working carefully and taking the necessary precautions, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
6 Measure the thickness of the brake shoe friction material at several points. If any are worn down to 1.0 mm or less, or fouled with oil or grease, all four shoes must be renewed
7 Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 5.7a to 5.7w) for the actual brake shoe renewal procedure, bearing in mind the additional points given in the following paragraphs. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
Prior to disturbing the brake shoes, note the correct fitted locations of all components, paying particular attention to the adjuster strut components
Remove the brake shoe retainer spring cups by depressing and turning them through 90º. With the cup removed, lift off the spring and withdraw the retainer pin
Prise the upper ends of the brake shoes apart and ease them away from the wheel cylinder pistons
Similarly spread the lower ends of the brake shoes apart and release them from the abutment bracket on the backplate
Turn the assembly over, compress the spring and unhook the handbrake cable from the lever on the trailing shoe
With the assembly on the bench, remove the lower return spring...
...adjuster strut...
...upper return spring...
...and the adjuster lever
Thoroughly clean the backplate, then apply a smear of high-melting-point brake grease to the contact surfaces
Dismantle and clean the adjuster strut then prior to refitting the adjuster strut, turn the forked end of the adjuster, so that the distance between the end of the strut and the adjuster wheel is 7 to 7.5 mm.
Locate the adjuster lever in the slot in the leading shoe peg...
...then engage the adjuster strut with leading shoe and adjuster lever
Fit the straight end of the upper return spring to the adjuster lever...
...then insert the coiled end of the spring in the trailing shoe slot
Spread the shoes apart and locate the adjuster strut in the cut-out in the handbrake lever
Fit the end of the lower return spring with the most coils to the leading shoe...
...and the end with the least coils to the trailing shoe
Pull back the spring and connect the handbrake cable to the lever on the trailing shoe
Position the assembled brake shoes on the backplate and engage the lower end of the leading shoe with the abutment bracket
Spread the shoes apart and engage the lower end of the trailing shoe with the abutment bracket
Pull the upper ends of the brake shoes apart and engage them with the wheel cylinder pistons
Insert the brake shoe retainer spring pins, then refit the retainer springs and cups
8 If the drum was removed leaving the rear hub in position, slide the drum over the roadwheel studs and onto the hub. Where applicable, refit the brake drum retaining clip to the roadwheel stud.
9 If the drum was removed complete with the rear hub, slide the hub and drum assembly into position over the stub axle. Fit the washer and a new hub retaining nut, then tighten the nut to the specified torque.
Rear hub nut: Nm Ibf ft
  44 mm flange diameter nut:
    Stage 1 Rotate the hub 5 times
    Stage 2 200 148
    Stage 3 Rotate the hub 5 times
    Stage 4 300 221
    Stage 5 Rotate the hub 5 times
  51 mm flange diameter nut:
    Stage 1 Rotate the hub 5 times
    Stage 2 200 148
    Stage 3 Rotate the hub 5 times
    Stage 4 450 332
    Stage 5 Rotate the hub 5 times
10 With the handbrake fully released, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed.
11 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake.
12 Once both sets of rear shoes have been renewed, with the handbrake fully released, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed.
13 Refit the roadwheels, and lightly tighten the retaining nuts. Do not lower the vehicle to the ground yet.
14 Check and, if necessary, adjust the handbrake as follows:
15 From under the vehicle, locate the handbrake cable adjuster nut at the cable compensator plate (see illustration) .
Handbrake cable adjuster nut
16 With the handbrake lever released, slacken the locknut, then tighten the cable adjuster nut until the brake shoes just start to drag on the brake drums and slight resistance is felt when the roadwheel is rotated.
17 Slacken the handbrake cable adjuster nut three full turns and check that the rear wheels are free to rotate without binding.
18 Hold the adjuster nut and tighten the locknut.
19 Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 200 Nm (147 Ibf ft).
Caution: New brake shoes will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after shoe renewal.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear shock absorber replacement

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands.
2 Support the rear axle with a trolley jack.
3 Undo the retaining nut, and withdraw the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt retaining nut (arrowed)...
4 Unscrew the upper mounting bolt and remove the shock absorber (see illustration) .
...and upper mounting bolt
5 To test the shock absorber for efficiency, grip the upper or lower mounting eye in a vice, and then pump the piston repeatedly through its full stroke. If the resistance is weak or is felt to be uneven, the shock absorber is defective and must be renewed. It must also be renewed if it is leaking fluid. It is advisable to renew both rear shock absorbers at the same time, or the handling characteristics of the vehicle could be adversely affected.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the mounting bolts are tightened to the specified torque.
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt/nut 80 Nm (59 Ibf ft)
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt/nut 150 Nm (111 Ibf ft)
Check rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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