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Brakes, suspension & tyres Jaguar X-Type 2001 - 2011 Petrol 2.5 V6

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Jaguar X-Type 2001 - 2011  | 2.5 V6 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface, it's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew both sets of front brake pads at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then slacken the front roadwheel bolts. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration, and note the following points:
  1. When pushing the caliper piston back to accommodate new pads, keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
  2. Renew the lower caliper guide pin bolts (normally supplied in the genuine Jaguar pad replacement kit).
If there is wear, or rust lip, around the edge of the disc, use a large screwdriver to lever the pads away from the disc face
Where fitted, undo the nut …
…and remove the damper weight from the lower guide pin bolt
Undo the lower guide pin bolt…
…and pivot the caliper upwards
Remove the outer brake pad…
…followed by the inner pad
Measure the thickness of the pads friction material. If it’s less than 2.0 mm, replace all four pads
Clean the caliper bracket pad mounting surfaces with aerosol cleaner and a soft brush
If new pads are being fitted, push the pistons back into the calipers using a retraction tool. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir!
Apply a smear of high-temperature, anti-seize grease to the pad mounting surfaces
Fit the inner pad…
…and outer pad. Ensure the friction material is against the disc face!
Pivot the caliper back down into place…
…fit the new caliper guide pin bolt…
…and tighten it to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
3 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
4 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
5 Before refitting the roadwheels, use a wire brush or mildly abrasive cloth (Scotchbrite, etc.) to clean the mating surfaces of the hub and wheel. Apply a little anti-seize grease (Copperslip) to the hub and wheel surface prior to refitting.
6 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.
Roadwheel nuts:
  Steel wheels 80 Nm (59 Ibf ft)
  Aluminium wheels 103 Nm (76 Ibf ft)
7 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, and you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Seek advice should you detect a problem. Replace the wheel and repeat on the other side
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
Check condition of the rear brake discs
Locate rear brake pads
Measure brake pad wear thickness. If it is less than 2.0mm, all rear pads need replacement. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake pads replacement

1 Warning: Renew BOTH sets of rear brake pads at the same time - NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts - use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
2 Apply the handbrake, then loosen the rear roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.
3 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration, and note the following points:
  1. When pushing the caliper piston back to accommodate new pads, keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
  2. Renew the caliper mounting bolts.
  3. A piston retraction tool will be required if new pads are fitted.
  4. Note that the left-hand caliper piston retracts anti-clockwise into the caliper body, and the right-hand one, clockwise.
With the handbrake fully released, pull the end of the cable from the caliper lever…
…and slide out the clip securing the outer cable
Undo the caliper guide pin bolts (with vibration damper where fitted) …
…pull the caliper from place. Don’t let it hang by the fluid hose, suspend it using string or wire
Remove the outer brake pad…
…followed by the inner pad
Remove the lower shims…
…and the upper shims (where fitted)
Clean the caliper mounting bracket pad mounting surfaces with a soft brush and aerosol cleaner
Measure the thickness of the pads friction material. If it’s less than 2.0 mm, replace all four pads
Refit the upper…
…and lower shims (where fitted)
Apply a smear of high-temperature, anti-seize grease to the pad mounting surfaces
Fit the outer pad…
…followed by the inner pad…
…ensuring the pads friction material is against the disc face
If new pads are being fitted, the piston must be retracted into the caliper body, ideally using a piston retraction tool. The piston must be pushed into the body at the same time as being rotated – clockwise for the right-hand caliper, but anti-clockwise for the left-hand caliper
When fully retracted, align the slot in the piston face…
…with the pin in the pad backing plate
Peel away the protection sheet (where fitted)…
…and slide the caliper back into place. Feed the handbrake cable into place as the caliper is refitted
If the slot in the piston face aligns with the notch in the body, the pin on the back of the pad will be correctly located
Fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
Refit the end of the handbrake cable to the lever on the caliper…
…and secure the outer cable with the clip
4 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
5 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper.
6 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
Roadwheel nuts:
  Steel wheels 80 Nm (59 Ibf ft)
  Aluminium wheels 103 Nm (76 Ibf ft)
7 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
8 Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
Take a good look around the brake system and suspension arm, checking for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear shock absorber replacement

Removal

1 Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
2 Position a trolley jack under the coil spring area of the rear lower arm, to keep the coil spring in compression.
3 Unscrew and remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt
4 Unscrew and remove the upper mounting nuts, and withdraw the shock absorber from under the car (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber upper mounting nuts

Testing

5 Check the mounting rubbers for damage and deterioration. If they are worn, the complete shock absorber must be renewed, as they are not available separately.
6 Mount the shock absorber in a vice, gripping it by the lower mounting. Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage. Test the operation of the shock absorber by moving it through a full stroke, and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky or uneven, the shock absorber should be renewed.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, however, do not fully tighten the lower mounting bolts to the specified torque until the full weight of the car is on its suspension. Note: On models prior to VIN J29472, if the original lower shock absorber damper bolt is being refitted, tighten it to 130 Nm. On all models, if a new bolt is being fitted, replace the nut as well, and tighten them to 115 Nm.
Rear shock absorber:
  Upper mounting nuts 25 Nm (17 Ibf ft)
  Lower mounting bolt See text above
Check the rubber exhaust mountings for condition
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread. There is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
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