Warning: Renew BOTH sets of rear brake pads at the same time - NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts - use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Apply the handbrake, then loosen the rear roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.
Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration, and note the following points:
- When pushing the caliper piston back to accommodate new pads, keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
- Renew the caliper mounting bolts.
- A piston retraction tool will be required if new pads are fitted.
- Note that the left-hand caliper piston retracts anti-clockwise into the caliper body, and the right-hand one, clockwise.
With the handbrake fully released, pull the end of the cable from the caliper lever…
…and slide out the clip securing the outer cable
Undo the caliper guide pin bolts (with vibration damper where fitted) …
…pull the caliper from place. Don’t let it hang by the fluid hose, suspend it using string or wire
Remove the outer brake pad…
…followed by the inner pad
Remove the lower shims…
…and the upper shims (where fitted)
Clean the caliper mounting bracket pad mounting surfaces with a soft brush and aerosol cleaner
Measure the thickness of the pads friction material. If it’s less than 2.0 mm, replace all four pads
Refit the upper…
…and lower shims (where fitted)
Apply a smear of high-temperature, anti-seize grease to the pad mounting surfaces
Fit the outer pad…
…followed by the inner pad…
…ensuring the pads friction material is against the disc face
If new pads are being fitted, the piston must be retracted into the caliper body, ideally using a piston retraction tool. The piston must be pushed into the body at the same time as being rotated – clockwise for the right-hand caliper, but anti-clockwise for the left-hand caliper
When fully retracted, align the slot in the piston face…
…with the pin in the pad backing plate
Peel away the protection sheet (where fitted)…
…and slide the caliper back into place. Feed the handbrake cable into place as the caliper is refitted
If the slot in the piston face aligns with the notch in the body, the pin on the back of the pad will be correctly located
Fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
Refit the end of the handbrake cable to the lever on the caliper…
…and secure the outer cable with the clip
Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper.
Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
| Steel wheels
||80 Nm (59 Ibf ft)
| Aluminium wheels
||103 Nm (76 Ibf ft)
Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.