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Roadside wheel change Land Rover Defender 1983 - 2007 Diesel 2.5 TD5

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Land Rover Defender 1983 - 2007  | 2.5 TD5 Roadside wheel change

  • time 10 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1
Warning: The handbrake acts on the transmission, not the rear wheels, and may not hold the vehicle stationary when jacking, unless the following procedure is followed precisely. If one front wheel and one rear wheel are raised, no vehicle holding or braking effect is possible using the handbrake, therefore the wheels must always be chocked (using the chock supplied in the tool kit). If the vehicle is coupled to a trailer, disconnect the trailer from the vehicle before commencing jacking. This is to prevent the trailer pulling the vehicle off the jack and causing personal injury.
1 The jack should always be used on firm, level ground.
2 Apply the handbrake.
3 Switch on the ignition, then engage first gear.
4 Engage the differential lock, and check that the appropriate warning light on the instrument panel is illuminated. Switch off the ignition, and remove the key.
5 Ensure that any occupants get out of the vehicle before jacking.
6 Using the wheel nut wrench supplied in the tool kit, initially slacken the nuts on the wheel to be removed.
7 Before jacking up a wheel, the chocks supplied with the tool kit should be positioned at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel to be raised.
8 With the chocks in position, assemble the two-piece operating lever, ensuring that the locking clip engages fully with the corresponding slot.
9 On the hydraulic type jack, check that the release valve at the bottom of the jack body is closed (turned fully clockwise).
10 If jacking up a front wheel, slide the jack into position from the front of the vehicle (not from the side). Position the jack head so that when raised, it will engage with the front axle casing immediately below the coil spring, between the flange at the end of the axle casing, and the bracket to which the front suspension components are attached (see illustration) .
Jack in position under front axle. Check that the release valve (arrowed) is fully closed before jacking
11 If raising a rear wheel, slide the jack into position from the rear of the vehicle (not from the side). Position the jack head so that when raised, it will engage with the rear axle casing immediately below the coil spring, and as close as possible to the shock absorber mounting bracket.
12 Operate the jack and raise the vehicle.
13 Once the wheel is clear of the ground, remove the wheel nuts, and lift off the wheel
14 Again using the wheel nut wrench, remove the nuts securing the spare wheel to the carrier, and lift off the wheel.
15 Locate the spare wheel on the studs, then refit the original wheel nuts, and tighten as firmly as possible using the wrench.
16 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and withdraw the jack.
17 Finally tighten the wheel nuts using the wrench, with hand pressure only. Do not use foot pressure or an extension tube on the wheel wrench, as this could overstress the wheel studs, as well as making them difficult to remove subsequently.
18 Fit the removed wheel to the spare wheel carrier, and where applicable, refit the cover.
19 Stow the jack, chocks and tools in their correct locations.
20 On completion, disengage the differential lock and select the High range in the transfer gearbox.
21 At the earliest opportunity, check the that the wheel nuts have been tightened to the specified torque.
Roadwheel nuts:
  Steel wheels 108 Nm (80 Ibf ft)
  Alloy wheels 130 Nm (96 Ibf ft)
  Heavy duty wheels 170 Nm (125 Ibf ft)
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