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Brakes, suspension & tyres Land Rover Discovery 1998 - 2004 Diesel 2.5 TD5

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Land Rover Discovery 1998 - 2004  | 2.5 TD5 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check the condition of the brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks are found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs and pads
Now locate the brake pads. There are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface. It's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then loosen the front roadwheel nuts. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos for the actual pad renewal procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
Slacken . . .
. . . and remove the caliper guide pin bolt
Then swing the caliper upwards . . .
. . . and secure it to the suspension coil with wire (or string, etc)
Remove the outer brake pad . . .
. . . followed by the inner pad. Measure the thickness of the pad friction material. If any of the pads are worn to 2.0 mm thickness or less, renew all 4 pads
Fit the inner pad, ensuring the friction material is against the disc face . . .
. . . followed by the outer pad. Check that the pad is the correct way round – friction material against the disc
If new pads have been fitted, the caliper pistons must be pushed back – shown here with a pad retraction tool. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir – it may overflow!
Lower the caliper back down over the pads . . .
. . . then refit and tighten the caliper guide pin bolt to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
3 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
4 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
5 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft).
6 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP! Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, and you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Front shock absorber replacement

Note: Shock absorbers must ALWAYS be renewed in pairs, even if only one appears to be defective, in order to preserve safe handling.

Removal

1 Slacken the roadwheel nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 On the right-hand side, release the coolant expansion tank from its mountings and position it to one side (see illustration) .
Pull the rear of the coolant expansion tank upwards to release it from the mountings
3 On the left-hand side, slacken the clip and disconnect the intercooler hose from the turbocharger.
4 Place a trolley jack under the front axle on the relevant side.
5 Remove the 4 nuts securing the suspension turret to the vehicle chassis (see illustration) .
Undo the suspension turret retaining nuts
6 On models with ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) undo the nut securing the ACE pipe bracket to the suspension turret, then move the bracket to one side (see illustration) .
ACE pipes bracket (arrowed)
7 Release the clip securing the wiring harness to the suspension turret (where applicable).
8 Undo and remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolts (see illustration) .
Undo the shock absorber lower mounting bolts (arrowed)
9 Manoeuvre the suspension turret and shock absorber from the engine compartment. Take care not to strain the ACE/brake pipes – where applicable.
10 Undo and remove the through-bolt at the top of the shock absorbers, and separate the turret from the shock absorber (see illustration) .
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt (arrowed)

Testing

11 Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage or damage.
12 Test the operation of the shock absorber, while holding it in an upright position, by moving the piston through a full stroke, and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is necessary.
13 Renew the shock absorber complete if any damage or excessive wear is evident. Shock absorbers must always be renewed in axle sets, even if only one of the pair is damaged or leaking.
14 Inspect the mounting rubber for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, tightening all fasteners to their specified torque where given.
Front suspension shock absorber: Nm Ibf ft
  Lower mounting bolts 45 33
  Upper mounting bolt 125 92
Roadwheel nuts 140 103
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
Check the condition of the rear brake discs
Locate the rear brake pads
Measure the brake pad wear thickness. If it is less than 2.0mm all rear pads need replacement. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of rear brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then loosen the rear roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 4.2a to 4.2g) for the actual pad renewal procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration.
Undo the caliper guide pin bolts (arrowed) . . .
. . . and slide the caliper from position. Support the caliper with wire or string from the vehicle body. Don’t strain the rubber hose
Remove the outer pad . . .
. . . followed by the inner pad. Measure the thickness of the pads friction material. If any pad is worn to 2.0 mm thickness or less, renew all 4 pads
If new pads are to be fitted, the pistons must be pushed back into the caliper. Shown here with a pad retraction tool. Check the fluid level in the reservoir – it may overflow!
Fit the new pads to the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring the friction material of each pad is against the disc face
Slide the caliper over the pads, then refit and tighten the caliper guide pin bolts to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft)
3 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
4 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper.
5 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft).
6 Check the hydraulic fluid level.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
Take a good look around the brake system and suspension arm, checking for any leaks. Seek advice should you detect any leakage and/or serious damage to the components. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear shock absorber replacement

Note: Shock absorbers must ALWAYS be renewed in pairs, even if only one appears to be defective, in order to preserve safe handling.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands positioned underneath the rear axle. Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
2 Remove the mounting bolt at each end of the shock absorber, then compress it and remove it from the vehicle (see illustrations) .
Remove the lower shock absorber mounting bolt . . .
. . . and the upper mounting bolt (arrowed)

Testing

3 Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage or damage.
4 Test the operation of the shock absorber, while holding it in an upright position, by moving the piston through a full stroke, and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is necessary.
5 Renew the shock absorber complete if any damage or excessive wear is evident. Shock absorbers must always be renewed in axle sets, even if only one of the pair is damaged or leaking.

Refitting

6 Locate the shock absorber in the upper and lower mountings, then fit the bolts and tighten them to 125 Nm (92 Ibf ft).
7 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground, and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 Ibf ft).
Check the rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread. There is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel
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