Frequent oil and filterchanges are the mostimportant preventativemaintenance proceduresthat can be undertaken by the DIYowner. As engine oil ages, it becomesdiluted and contaminated, which leadsto premature engine wear.
Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear rubber gloves when carrying out this work.
Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains as level as possible, to enable the oil to drain fully.
Remove the engine oil filler cap, then pull the cover upwards from the top of the engine to release the rubber mountings
Pull the engine cover upwards
Clean the area around the filter cover, then use a socket to unscrew the filter cover 4 complete revolutions to allow the oil to drain
Unscrew the engine oil filter cover (arrowed) …
… 4 complete revolutions
Completely unscrew the filter cover, and pull the element from place. Discard the O-ring seal
. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
Pull the filter element from the cover
Renew the O-ring seal (arrowed)
Working underneath the vehicle, undo the retaining bolts and remove the engine undershield
. Note the locations of the various washers. Take care as the undershield is surprisingly heavy.
Engine undershield retaining bolts (arrowed)
Clean the drain plug and the area around it, then slacken it using a suitable socket or spanner
. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
Slacken and remove the engine oil drain plug (arrowed)
Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and discard the seal – a new seal must be fitted
. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, then fit the seal and tighten the plug to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
Note that on some vehicles, the seal is integral with the plug. Consequently, a new plug must be fitted.
Renew the drain plug seal (arrowed)
Insert the new filter element, ensuring the spigot aligns with the corresponding hole in the filter housing
Align the filter spigot with the hole in the filter housing (arrowed)
Renew the filter cover O-ring seal, lubricate the seal with clean engine oil, then refit the cover and tighten it to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft)
Lubricate the filter cover O-ring seal
Fill the engine with the specified quantity and grade of oil. Pour the oil in slowly, otherwise it may overflow. Check that the oil level is up to the correct level on the dipstick, then refit and tighten the oil filler cap.
|Engine oil quantity
|Difference between upper and lower dipstick markings
|Engine oil grade
||Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 to ACEA B1/B3 Land Rover specification WSS-M2C-913B
Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, then refit the engine undershield and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Refit the engine top cover.
Run the engine for a few minutes, and check that there are no leaks.
Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil if necessary.
Dispose of the used engine oil responsibly.