Skip to main content
Menu
0 items

Haynes On Demand sales are currently limited to residents of the United Kingdom only.

Brakes, suspension & tyres Land Rover Freelander 1997 - 2006 Diesel 2.0 TD4

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Land Rover
Freelander
1997 - 2006  | 2.0 TD4 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 20 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Now locate the brake pads. There are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad's wearing surface. It's the wear material that is pressed against the brake disc to slow the vehicle when the brake pedal is applied
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm all front pads need replacement. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew BOTH sets of front brake pads at the same time – NEVER renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts – use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then loosen the front roadwheel nuts. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
2 Unscrew and remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt. Pivot the caliper upwards from the disc to gain access to the brake pads, and tie it to the suspension strut using a piece of wire (see illustrations) .
Unscrew and remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt . . .
. . . pivot the caliper upwards from the disc
3 Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket, noting the correct position of the pad retainer springs (see illustration) .
Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket
4 Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake pad. If either pad is worn at any point to 3.0 mm thickness or less, all four front pads must be renewed (see illustration) . The pads should also be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease, as there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. New brake pad kits are available from Land Rover dealers, and include new pad retainer springs.
Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake pad
5 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Carefully clean the pad retainer springs and the pad locations in the caliper body and mounting bracket.
6 Scrape any rust from the periphery of the brake disc.
7 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder to make room for them. Either use a piston retraction tool, a G-clamp or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper bleed nipple. Open the bleed nipple as the piston is retracted; the surplus brake fluid will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel (see illustration) .
Open the bleed nipple as the piston is retracted
8 Check that the caliper guide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper bracket, and that the rubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage and the piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. Renew as necessary.
9 Commence refitting by fitting the pad retainer springs to the caliper mounting bracket.
10 Apply a thin smear of high-temperature copper brake grease or anti-seize compound to the sides and back of each pad’s metal backing, and to the pad contact surfaces on the caliper body and mounting bracket.
11 Install the brake pads in the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction material is against the disc. The pads may not be identical – look carefully; the pad with the horizontally chamfered top corner of the friction material is the outboard pad (see illustrations) . Note that depending on manufacturer, the pads may not have any chamfers.
Install the brake pads in the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction material is against the disc
The pad with the horizontally chamfered top corner of the friction material (A) is the outboard pad, and the pad with the sloping chamfer (B) is the inboard pad
12 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the bottom guide pin bolt and tighten it to 27 Nm.
13 Check that the caliper body slides smoothly in the mounting bracket, then depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc and normal pedal pressure is restored.
14 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
15 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 115 Nm.
16 On completion, check and if necessary top-up the hydraulic fluid level.
TIP! Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, and you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity. Should the front strut need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Front suspension strut replacement

Removal

1 Remove the front brake caliper (and, where applicable, the ABS wheel sensor) on the side concerned (see illustration) . The brake pads can be left in place. Support the caliper so no strain is placed on the flexible rubber fluid hose.
Carefully lift the caliper assembly off the brake pads
2 Loosen fully, but do not remove, the nut which secures the steering track rod to the arm at the top of the strut body. Using a balljoint splitter, separate the tapered joint from the arm, then unscrew the nut completely. Note that a new nut will be needed.
3 Remove the top nut from the anti-roll bar drop link, using a spanner or an Allen key to stop the link rotating. Separate the link from the strut, and move it to one side (see illustration) . Note that new nuts will be needed.
Remove the top nut from the anti-roll bar drop link, using an Allen key to stop the link rotating
4 Loosen and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub (note which way round the bolts are fitted – bolt head to the front of the vehicle), and separate the strut at the base (see illustration) .
Undo the two nuts and bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub
5 If the left-hand strut is being removed, proceed as follows:
  1. If not already done, disconnect the battery negative lead, and place the lead away from the battery terminal.
  2. Open the engine compartment fusebox, and remove the bolt(s) securing the positive and negative (where fitted) leads from the fusebox.
  3. Remove the three nuts securing the fusebox, and move the fusebox to one side, for access to the strut upper mounting nuts.
6 If the right-hand strut is being removed, remove the coolant expansion tank mounting bolt, and move the tank to one side.
7 Loosen the strut upper mounting nuts then, with one hand supporting the strut from below, remove the nuts and lower the strut out from under the wheel arch (see illustration) .
Loosen the suspension strut upper mounting nuts

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
  1. Use a new anti-roll bar link rod nut and track rod balljoint nut.
  2. Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
  3. Refit the ABS wheel sensor and brake caliper.
Anti-roll bar drop link nuts 45 Nm (33 Ibf ft)
Brake caliper guide pin bolts 27 Nm (20 Ibf ft)
Roadwheel nuts 115 Nm (85 Ibf ft)
Steering track rod end balljoint nut 55 Nm (41 Ibf ft)
Suspension strut upper mounting nuts 45 Nm (33 Ibf ft)
Suspension strut-to-hub nuts/bolts 205 Nm (151 Ibf ft)
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
This model has drum brakes. The minimum brake shoe wear thickness is 2.0mm. If you need to replace the rear shoes, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake shoes replacement

Warning: Brake shoes must be renewed on both rear wheels at the same time – never renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Also, the dust created by wear of the shoes may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.

Removal and inspection

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship of the drum to the hub.
3 With the handbrake firmly applied to prevent drum rotation, unscrew the drum retaining screws. Fully release the handbrake cable, then withdraw the drum (see illustration) .
Undo the drum retaining screw
4 If the drum will not pull away, first check that the handbrake is fully released. If the drum will still not come away, remove the grommet from the rear of the backplate and, using a small screwdriver (or two), release the shoe adjuster ratchet and turn the adjuster to increase the shoe-to-drum clearance (see illustration) .
Remove the grommet from the rear of the backplate to allow access to the adjuster wheel
5 Remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes, but take care not to inhale the dust.
6 Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake shoe at several points. If either shoe is worn at any point to 2.0 mm thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set (see illustration) . Also, the shoes should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease, as there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material once contaminated.
Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake shoe at several points
7 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. If the shoes are to be renewed, proceed as described below. If all is well, refit the drum.
HINT: When working on rear drums,only ever dismantle one side at a time, as this will give you a pattern to work to, for spring locations, etc, on the opposite side of the vehicle.
8 To remove the brake shoes, first remove the shoe retainer springs and pins, using a screwdriver to press in each retainer clip until it can be slid from under the retaining pin head and released (see illustration) .
Use a screwdriver to press in each retainer clip until it can be slid from under the retaining pin head and released

Vehicles up to 2001 model year

9 Ease the shoes out one at a time from the lower pivot point to release the tension of the return spring, then disconnect the lower return spring from both shoes. Ease the upper end of both shoes out from their wheel cylinder locations, taking care not to damage the wheel cylinder seals. The brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can now be manoeuvred out of position and away from the backplate (see illustration) .
Right-hand side rear brake assembly – vehicles up to 2001 model year 1 Wheel cylinder bolt 2 Blanking plug 3 Backplate 4 Dust cap 5 Bleed nipple 6 Wheel cylinder 7 Blanking plug 8 Leading brake shoe 9 Adjuster strut 10 Adjuster spring 11 Upper shoe return spring 12 Brake drum 13 Drum retaining screw 14 Spring 15 Lower shoe return spring 16 Trailing brake shoe 17 Shoe retainer clip 18 Backplate fixing bolt 19 Shoe retaining pin
10 Unhook the handbrake cable from the bracket on the trailing shoe.
11 Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled. Wrap a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them.
12 With the brake shoe assembly on the bench, make a note of the fitted positions of the adjuster strut and springs to use as a guide on reassembly (see illustration) . Carefully ease the adjuster strut from its slot in the trailing shoe and remove the short spring which secures the two components together. Detach the upper return spring and separate the shoes and strut.
Upper return spring (1), adjuster strut spring (2) and adjuster strut (3)
13 Examine the adjuster strut assembly for signs of wear or damage, paying particular attention to the adjuster quadrant and knurled wheel. If damaged, the strut assembly must be renewed. Renew all the brake shoe return springs if necessary.

Vehicles from 2001 model year

14 Using a pair of thin-nosed pliers, release the handbrake inner cable from the lever (see illustration) .
Using a pair of thin-nosed pliers, release the handbrake inner cable
15 Ease one shoe out at a time from the lower pivot point, then manoeuvre the brake shoe assembly around the wheel cylinder and hub flange and remove from the vehicle. Ensure that the ends of the brake shoes do not damage the wheel cylinder rubber dust covers.
16 Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled. Wrap a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them (see illustration) .
Wrap a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder
17 With the brake shoe assembly on the bench, note the fitted position of the various springs and remove them. Remove the adjuster and expander strut (see illustrations) .
Upper spring assembly . . .
. . . lower spring assembly . . .
. . . rear spring assembly . . .
. . . and front spring assembly

All models

18 Peel back the rubber protective caps and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage – a certain amount of dampness is normal (see illustration) . Check that both cylinder pistons are free to move easily.
Peel back the rubber protective caps and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks

Refitting

19 Prior to fitting, clean the backplate and apply a little high-temperature copper grease to all the shoe contact surfaces on the backplate, adjuster and wheel cylinder pistons. Do not allow the grease to foul the friction material.

Vehicles up to 2001 model year

20 Ensure the handbrake stop lever on the trailing shoe is correctly engaged with the lever, and is pressed tight against the brake shoe.
21 Fully extend the adjuster strut quadrant and fit the leading brake shoe into the adjuster strut slot, ensuring that the strut spring and knurled wheel are situated on the underside of the strut assembly. Using a screwdriver, move the quadrant away from the knurled wheel and set it in the minimum adjustment position.
22 Fit the upper return spring to its respective location on the leading shoe. Fit the trailing shoe to the upper return spring and carefully ease the shoe into position in the adjuster strut slot. Once in position, fit the small spring which secures the trailing shoe to the strut assembly.
23 Remove the elastic band fitted to the wheel cylinder, and manoeuvre the shoe and strut assembly into position on the backplate. Locate the upper end of both shoes with the wheel cylinder pistons and fit the handbrake cable to the trailing shoe clip. Fit the lower return spring to both shoes and ease the shoes into position on the lower pivot point.
24 Tap the shoes to centralise them with the backplate, then refit the shoe retainer pins and springs and secure them in position with the retainer clips. Check that the adjuster quadrant is still in the minimum adjuster position and, if necessary, reset it by levering the leading shoe away from the wheel cylinder then moving the adjustment cam back. Once the adjuster strut is correctly set, ease the leading shoe back into position and check that the shoes are still central.

Vehicles from 2001 model year

25 Fit the upper return spring and adjuster strut (see illustration) . Ensure the adjuster wheel is set in the minimum position (fully compressed).
Fit the upper return spring and adjuster strut
26 Remove the elastic bands, and position the brake shoes either side of the wheel cylinder, and ensure that the ends of the shoes align with the cylinder pistons (see illustration) .
Position the brake shoes either side of the wheel cylinder
27 Refit the lower return spring and handbrake strut (see illustration) .
Refit the lower return spring and handbrake strut
28 Carefully refit the adjuster wheel ratchet mechanism and spring (see illustration) , and the expander strut spring.
Carefully refit the adjuster wheel ratchet mechanism and spring
29 Using a pair of thin-nosed pliers, reconnect the handbrake inner cable to the brake shoe lever.
30 Insert the retaining pins through the corresponding holes in the shoes, and secure them in place with the clips (see illustration) .
Note the position of the shoe retaining pin clips

All models

31 Refit the brake drum and repeat the above operations on the remaining rear brake assembly.
32 On completion, apply the footbrake repeatedly to set the shoe-to-drum clearance, until normal brake pedal operation returns.
33 Check handbrake operation and, if necessary, adjust.
34 Refit the roadwheels then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to 115 Nm.
35 On completion, check and if necessary top-up the hydraulic fluid level.
Take a good look around the brake system and suspension arm, checking for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear suspension strut replacement

Removal

1 Loosen the relevant rear wheel nuts, then chock the front wheels and jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
2 Clamp the rear brake flexible hose to reduce fluid spillage (if wished, unclip the brake hose to make it easier to work on). Place some absorbent cloth under the hose-to-pipe union, and disconnect the union.
3 If not already done, remove the clip which secures the brake hose to the strut bracket. Release the brake hose and the ABS wiring from their various locations on and around the strut (see illustration) .
Remove the clip which secures the brake hose to the strut bracket
4 Remove the ABS wheel sensor from its location on the rear hub. Depending on model, the sensor may have a retaining bolt fitted; otherwise, the sensor just prises out.
5 Loosen and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub (note which way round the bolts are fitted – bolt heads to the front of the vehicle), and separate the strut at the base (see illustration) .
Undo the two nuts and bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub
6 Inside the vehicle, fold the rear seat forwards. On 5-door models, unscrew the rear seat belt lower Torx bolt (see illustration) .
On 5-door models, unscrew the rear seat belt lower Torx bolt
7 Prise out the luggage compartment light, then disconnect the two connectors from it, and remove it from the luggage area side trim panel.
8 Remove the screws securing the carpet retainer at the rear edge of the luggage area, and release the retainer and carpet as necessary so that the side trim panel will be free to be removed.
9 Turn the four turn-buckle fasteners securing the side trim panel to release them (see illustration) .
Turn the four turn-buckle fasteners securing the side trim panel to release them
10 The side trim panel is clipped in place by five clips, mainly along the front and top edges. Carefully prise along the edges of the trim panel to release the clips, and remove it from the vehicle for access to the strut upper mounting nuts.
11 Loosen the strut upper mounting nuts then, with one hand supporting the strut from below, remove the nuts and lower the strut out from under the wheel arch (see illustration) .
Loosen the strut upper mounting nuts

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
  1. The two strut-to-hub bolts are inserted from the front.
  2. Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
  3. Refit the ABS wheel sensor. Make sure that the sensor wiring and the brake hose are clipped back into place correctly on the strut.
  4. On completion, top-up the brake fluid level and bleed the brakes.
Suspension strut upper mounting nuts 45 Nm (33 Ibf ft)
Suspension strut-to-hub nuts/bolts (tighten when vehicle is resting on its' wheels 205 Nm (151 Ibf ft)
Roadwheel nuts 115 Nm (85 Ibf ft)
Check the rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread. There is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system