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Fluid level checks Land Rover Freelander 1997 - 2006 Diesel 2.0 TD4

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Land Rover
1997 - 2006  | 2.0 TD4 Fluid level checks

  • time 5 to 30 minutes
  • difficulty 1

Underbonnet check points

1.8 litre petrol A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir
2.0 litre L-Series diesel A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir
2.0 litre TD4 diesel A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir F Battery G Power steering fluid reservoir

Engine oil level

1 • Make sure that the vehicle is on level ground.
2 • Check the oil level before the vehicle is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.
HINT: If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

3 • Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your vehicle is used.
Engine oil grade:
  Petrol engines 10W/40 Multigrade engine oil to specification ACEA A2 (up to 2003) or A3
  Diesel engines up to 2003 10W/40 or 15W/40 Multigrade engine oil to specification ACEA A3/B3
  Diesel engines from 2003 5W/30 Multigrade engine oil to specification ACEA A3/B3

Vehicle care

4 • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the vehicle overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil.
5 • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
The dipstick is located on the right-hand rear of the engine on 1.8 litre petrol models. On all diesel models it is located on the right-hand front of the engine. It is brightly coloured for ease of location. See Underbonnet check points for the exact location of the dipstick.
Withdraw the dipstick. Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper MAX mark and the lower MIN mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap on top of the engine. Rotate the cap through a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill. If you need to renew the oil and filter, click below
- Close + Open

Engine oil and filter change

Caution: To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it.
Caution: Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle.
3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Release the retaining screws and remove the engine undertray.
4 Using a spanner or a suitable socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustrations) . Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint) .
Engine oil sump plug – L-Series engine
Engine oil sump plug – TD4 engine
HINT: As the drain plug threads release, move it sharply away so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.
5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
6 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain plug with a clean rag and discard the sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug complete with a new washer and tighten it to 28 Nm (21 Ibf ft).

L-Series engines

7 Move the container into position under the oil filter on the right-hand rear end of the of the cylinder block.
8 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil from the old filter into the container.
If necessary, use a filter removal tool to slacken the oil filter
9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine.
10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw the filter into position. Screw the filter on until its sealing ring contacts the filter housing then tighten firmly through another complete turn by hand. If you are using a filter removal/fitting tool, tighten the filter to 16 Nm (12 lbf ft).

TD4 engines

11 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine. Unscrew the oil filter housing cap. Remove the filter element. Examine the 3 seals and renew them if they show any signs of damage or wear (see illustrations) .
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cap . . .
. . . and discard the three O-ring seals (arrowed) if they are damaged or worn
12 Ensure that the filter cap is clean and dry. Fit the new filter element onto the filter cap or housing (see illustration) .
Fit the new element into the housing
13 Lubricate the new seals (where renewed) with clean engine oil, and fit them to the filter cap. Refit the cap and tighten it to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
14 Refit the plastic cover to the top of the engine and tighten the retaining bolts securely.

All models

15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the engine undertray, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Fill the engine through the filler hole, using the correct grade and type of oil. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately a further 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
Engine oil quantity:
  L-Series engines 4.5 litres
  TD4 engines 6.8 litres
Difference between MIN and MAX on the dipstick (approximate) 1.0 litre
Engine oil grade:
  Upto 2003 10W/40 or 15W/40 Multigrade engine oil to specification ACEA A3/B3
  From 2003 5W/30 Multigrade engine oil to specification ACEA A3/B3
17 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the new oil filter and the engine oil galleries before the pressure builds-up.
18 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Vehicle Care

6 • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
7 • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be on the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank located in the right-hand rear corner of the engine compartment. When the engine is hot, the level will rise slightly.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold, then slowly unscrew the expansion tank filler cap anti-clockwise, to release any pressure in the system, and remove it.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure. Should you need to replace the coolant, click below
- Close + Open

Coolant replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise, wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then unscrew it and lift it off.
2 Jack the front of the vehicle up and support it on axle stands. Release the retaining screws and remove the engine undertray. Position a suitable container beneath the coolant rail.
3 Position the heater temperature control on its maximum setting.
4 Release the clip and disconnect the bottom hose from the coolant rail, and allow the coolant to drain into the container.
5 When the flow of coolant stops, refit the bottom hose and refit the clip.
6 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than three years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended.

Cooling system flushing

7 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.
8 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

9 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator.
10 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
11 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

12 Remove the thermostat, then, if the radiator top hose has been disconnected from the engine, temporarily reconnect the hose.
13 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose.
14 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses .

Cooling system filling

15 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components. Make sure the heater controls are set to maximum heat.
16 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. Unscrew and remove the bleed screw from the heater return hose at the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration) .
Unscrew and remove the bleed screw from the heater return hose at the engine compartment bulkhead
17 Slowly fill the system until bubble-free coolant comes out of the bleed hole in the coolant pipe, then fit and tighten the screw.
Coolant quantity (approximately) 6.5 litres
Anti-freeze type:
  Models up to June 2000 model year Antifreeze to specification BS 6580 and BS 5117. Ethylene-glycol based with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors, containing no methanol. Mixture 50% by volume
  Models June 2000-on Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze, containing no methanol with only Organic Acid Technology (OAT) corrosion inhibitors
18 Continue filling the system until bubble free coolant comes out of the bleed screw in the heater return hose, then fit and tighten the screw.
19 Fill the cooling system until the coolant reaches the MAX mark on the expansion tank, then refit and tighten the filler cap.
20 Refit the undershield beneath the engine compartment, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
21 Start the engine, and allow it to run until it reaches normal operating temperature (until the cooling fan cuts in and out). Do not operate the air conditioning at this stage.
22 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then recheck the coolant level. Top-up the level if necessary and refit the expansion tank filler cap.

Antifreeze mixture

23 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective.
24 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems..
25 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security.
26 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze.
27 Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

Brake fluid level

8 • Make sure that the vehicle is on level ground .
9 • Cleanliness is of great importance when dealing with the braking system, so take care to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid.
10 • The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark.

Safety first!

11 • If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.
12 • If a leak is suspected, the vehicle should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
13 Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
The brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir are mounted on the vacuum servo unit in the engine compartment on the right-hand side of the bulkhead. The MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.
If topping-up is necessary, wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. It’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The fluid should be changed if dirt is visible.
Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only DOT 4 hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Screen washer fluid level

14 • Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather – which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system – this may damage the paintwork.
The reservoir for the windscreen and rear window (where applicable) washer systems is located in the front right-hand corner of the engine compartment. If topping up is necessary, open the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle. It could also be time to replace the wiper blades. For details, click below
- Close + Open

Wiper blade replacement

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.
To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then depress the locking tab with a screwdriver or your fingers. Slide the wiper blade out of the hooked end of the arm, then feed the arm through the hole in the blade. When fitting the new blade, make sure that the blade locks securely into the arm, and that the blade is orientated correctly.