Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage compartment.
On Mk 2 models (1998-on) fold back the floor covering and lift up the cover panel.
Unscrew the retaining bolts/nuts, and lift out the tools, followed by the spare wheel.
Where applicable, prise off the wheel trim or centre cover for access to the wheel nuts. Models with alloy wheelsmay have special locking nuts – these are removed with a special tool, which should be provided with the wheel brace (or it maybe in the glovebox).
Slacken each wheel nut by a half turn, using the wheel brace. If the nuts are too tight, DON’T stand on the wheelbrace to undo them – call for assistance from one of the motoring organisations.
Two jacking points are provided on each side – use the one nearest the punctured wheel. Locate the jack head at the point in the lower sill flange indicated by the indentation in the metal sill (don’t jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill, nor on a plastic panel). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground.
Unscrew the wheel nuts, and remove the wheel.
Fit the spare wheel, and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheel brace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts, then refit the wheel trim or centre cover, as applicable. Note that the wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft) at the earliest possible opportunity.
Some models are supplied with a special lightweight
All OnDemand jobs for your car
1 year subscription