Skip to main content
Menu
0 items

Haynes On Demand sales are currently limited to residents of the United Kingdom only.

Brakes, suspension & tyres Mercedes-Benz C-Class 2000 - 2007 Diesel C220 CDi - 2.1

OnDemand step-by-step maintenance & repair BETA

Mercedes-Benz C-Class 2000 - 2007  | C220 CDi - 2.1 Brakes, suspension & tyres

  • time 15 minutes
  • difficulty 3
Start with the front wheels
With the wheel off the ground, check for wear in the wheel hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it. Very slight play is OK, but if the movement is appreciable, you should seek further advice
Now remove the wheel
Check condition of brake discs. Some light scoring is normal on the area in contact with the brake pads, but if heavy scoring and/or cracks found on the disc or around the wheel bolt holes, the disc must be renewed. ALWAYS replace both front discs and pads
Now locate the brake pads, there are two, one on each side of the disc. Locate the brake pad wearing surface
Using a ruler, measure the approximate thickness of the remaining wear material on the brake pad. If it is less than 2.0mm, all front pads need to be replaced. If you need to replace the front pads, click below
- Close + Open

Front brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew both sets of front brake pads at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
Note: New caliper guide pin bolts will be required on refitting.
1 Chock the rear wheels and firmly apply the parking brake. Loosen the front wheel bolts, and then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

Floating calipers

2 Disconnect the wear sensor connector from the caliper housing. Undo the wiring clamp bolt from the caliper (see illustrations) .
Disconnect the wear sensor wiring connector . . .
. . . and unbolt the wiring clamp bolt from the caliper
3 Slacken and remove both caliper guide pin bolts, and remove the caliper from the mounting bracket (see illustration) . Tie the caliper up to a convenient point, so that the brake hose is not strained.
Caliper guide pin bolts
4 Withdraw the two brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket, noting the correct fitted location of the wear sensor (on the inner pad). Recover the heat shield fitted around the caliper piston, where applicable, noting how it is fitted (see illustrations) .
Remove the outer brake pad . . .
. . . and the inner brake pad
5 First measure the thickness of each brake pad’s friction material (excluding the metal backplate). If either pad is worn at any point to 2.0 mm thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any of them are fouled with oil or grease. There is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. Inspect the wear sensor for signs of damage, and renew if necessary. New brake pad kits are available from Mercedes-Benz dealers.
6 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean out the grooves in the friction material (where applicable), and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
7 Prior to fitting the pads, check the pins are free to slide easily in the caliper bracket, and are a reasonably tight fit. Ensure that the guide pin gaiters are undamaged. Clean the guide pin and inspect for wear, apply a coat of high-temperature grease and re-assemble. Remove all traces of locking compound from the guide pin threads using a tap of the correct thread size and pitch (see illustrations) .
Remove the guide pin . . .
. . . and lubricate with clean grease
8 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it, as it may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston itself for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage.
9 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder to make room for them. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers (see illustration) . Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be syphoned off or ejected through a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw.
Using a proprietary tool for pushing the piston back into the caliper
Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old antifreeze tester.
10 Apply a smear of brake grease to the backing plate of each pad (Mercedes-Benz recommend the use of brake paste – number 001 989 10 51); do not apply excess grease or allow the grease to contact the friction material (see illustration) . Note that where new pads have an adhesive backing, no grease is required.
Apply brake grease to the backing plate
11 Check that the anti-rattle clips are fitted correctly in the caliper mounting bracket (see illustrations) .
Check the upper . . .
. . . and lower clips are secure
12 Clip the pad wear sensor (where removed) securely in position (see illustration) , and then fit the pads to the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that their friction material is against the brake disc. Where applicable, refit the heat shield around the caliper piston.
Check that the sensor wire is fitted
13 Refit the caliper into position over the pads, passing the wear sensor wiring up through the caliper aperture.
14 Ensure that the pad anti-rattle springs are correctly positioned against the caliper housing, then press down on the caliper and install the new guide pin bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 Ibf ft).
15 Reconnect the wear sensor wiring connector to the caliper, making sure the excess wiring is wrapped neatly around the connector. Ensure that the connector is correctly fitted, and clip the sensor cover into the caliper aperture.
16 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
17 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper.
18 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
19 Check the hydraulic fluid level. Test the operation of the braking system exhaustively, before bringing the car back into service on the road.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have ‘bedded in’. Be prepared for this – avoid hard braking, as far as possible, for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.

Fixed calipers

20 Where fitted, pull the pad wear sensor wiring connectors out from the caliper body, noting the correct routing of the wiring.
21 Using a hammer and suitable punch, carefully tap out the pad retaining pins towards the inside, and recover the anti-rattle spring, noting its fitted position (see illustration) .
Brake pad retaining pins
22 Slide the pads out from the caliper body, and where applicable, recover the shims, which are fitted between the pads and pistons.
23 Inspect the brake pads as described in paragraphs 5 and 6 of this Section. Renew the anti-rattle spring, pad retaining pin(s) and shims (as applicable) if the pads are to be renewed.
24 Prior to fitting the pads, brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and pistons, but do not inhale it, as it is a health hazard. Inspect the dust seals around each piston for damage, and the pistons for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If any such deterioration is found, the caliper must be overhauled.
25 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper pistons must be pushed back into the cylinder to make room for them. Carefully prise the pistons back into position using a suitable lever (see illustration) . Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be syphoned off or ejected through a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw.
Carefully lever the piston back
Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old antifreeze tester.
26 On brake pads equipped with anti-squeal shims, do not apply any lubricant to the pads. Where the pad backing plates are plain and no shim is fitted, apply a smear of copper brake grease to the side edges of the pad backing plate (Mercedes-Benz recommend the use of brake paste – number 001 989 10 51); do not apply excess grease or allow the grease to contact the friction material (see illustration) .
Apply brake grease along side edges of backing plate
27 Where fitted, ensure that the wear sensors are clipped securely into the backing plate of each pad and fit the shims to the back of each pad.
28 Slide the brake pads and (where applicable) shims into position in the caliper; making sure the friction material of each pad is against the brake disc.
29 Fit the new anti-rattle spring to the top of the pads, making sure it is fitted correctly.
30 Slide in the pad retaining pins over the anti-rattle spring from the inside, and tap fully into place up to the stop.
31 Where fitted ensure that the wiring is correctly routed, and connect the wear sensor connectors to the caliper body.
32 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
33 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining brake caliper.
34 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
35 Check the hydraulic fluid level. Test the operation of the braking system exhaustively, before bringing the car back into service on the road.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have ‘bedded in’. Be prepared for this – and avoid hard braking, as far as possible, for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
TIP - Virtually all cars have this inspection window in the brake caliper body, you can usually see the brake pad thickness from here
Now quickly check all the brake pipes for condition, check for any leaks, also inspect the rubber gaitors for integrity.
It is a similar procedure with the rear wheels. Check for wheel bearing movement, then remove the wheel
Check condition of the rear brake discs
Locate rear brake pads
Measure brake pad wear thickness. If it is less than 2.0mm, all rear pads need to be replaced. If you need to replace the rear pads, click below
- Close + Open

Rear brake pads replacement

Warning: Renew both sets of rear brake pads at the same time – never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Chock the front wheels and loosen the rear wheel bolts. Jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Where fitted, pull the pad wear sensor wiring connectors out from the caliper body, noting the correct routing of the wiring.
3 Using a hammer and suitable punch, carefully tap out the pad retaining pin towards the inside, and recover the anti-rattle spring, noting its fitted position (see illustrations) .
Tap out the retaining pin . . .
. . . and remove the anti-rattle spring
4 Slide the pads out from the caliper body, and where applicable, recover the shims, which are fitted between the pads and pistons (see illustrations) .
Withdraw the outer . . .
. . . and inner brake pad
5 First measure the thickness of each brake pad’s friction material (excluding the metal backplate). If either pad is worn at any point to 2.0 mm thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any of them are fouled with oil or grease. There is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. Inspect the wear sensor for signs of damage, and renew if necessary. New brake pad kits are available from Mercedes-Benz dealers.
6 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean out the grooves in the friction material (where applicable), and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
7 Renew the anti-rattle spring, pad retaining pin(s) and shims (as applicable) if the pads are to be renewed.
8 Prior to fitting the pads, brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and pistons (see illustration) , but do not inhale it, as it is a health hazard. Inspect the dust seals around each piston for damage, and the pistons for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If any such deterioration is found, the caliper must be overhauled.
Clean out the caliper body
9 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper pistons must be pushed back into the cylinder to make room for them. Carefully prise the pistons back into position using a suitable lever (see illustration). Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be syphoned off or ejected through a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw.
Lever back the caliper piston
Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old antifreeze tester.
10 On brake pads equipped with anti-squeal shims, do not apply any lubricant to the pads. Where the pad backing plates are plain and no shim is fitted, apply a smear of copper brake grease to the side edges of the pad backing plate (Mercedes-Benz recommend the use of brake paste – number 001 989 10 51); do not apply excess grease or allow the grease to contact the friction material (see illustration) .
If the pads have no shims, apply suitable lubricant to the edges of the backing plate (arrowed)
11 Where fitted, ensure that the wear sensors are clipped securely into the backing plate of each pad and fit the shims to the back of each pad.
12 Slide the brake pads and (where applicable) shims into position in the caliper; making sure the friction material of each pad is against the brake disc.
13 Fit the new anti-rattle spring to the top of the pads, making sure it is fitted the right way up.
14 Slide in the pad retaining pins over the anti-rattle spring from the inside, and tap fully into place up to the stop (see illustration) .
Tap the pad retaining pin(s) in from the inside
15 Where fitted ensure that the wiring is correctly routed, and connect the wear sensor connectors to the caliper body.
16 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.
17 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper.
18 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
19 Check the hydraulic fluid level. Test the operation of the braking system exhaustively, before bringing the car back into service on the road.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have ‘bedded in’. Be prepared for this – and avoid hard braking, as far as possible, for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.
Take a good look around brake system and the suspension arm, check for any leaks. Should the rear shock absorber need to be replaced, click below
- Close + Open

Rear shock absorber replacement

Note: Shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle, to preserve safe handling.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, and loosen the rear wheel bolts. Jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands. To improve access, remove the rear roadwheel.
2 Undo the retaining screws and unclip the protective cover from the base of the suspension lower arm (see illustrations) .
Undo the retaining screws (arrowed) . . .
. . . and remove the protective cover from the base of the lower arm
3 Position a jack underneath the lower arm, and raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the arm (see illustration) .
Support the suspension lower arm
4 Release the fasteners and remove the luggage compartment side trim panel to gain access to the shock absorber upper mounting (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber upper mounting (Estate)
5 Slacken and unscrew the upper mounting nut, taking care to ensure that the shock absorber body/piston rod does not rotate, and lift off the large washer and rubber bush. Note, on some models there may be two nuts at the top of the shock absorber, the upper one being a locknut.
Warning: Do not attempt to remove the shock absorber upper mounting nuts unless the lower arm is securely supported by the jack.
6 From underneath the car, slacken and remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt nut (see illustration) , and withdraw the bolt and washers.
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt
7 Carefully lower the suspension arm slightly, and then manoeuvre the shock absorber out from underneath the wheel arch. Take off the dust cover, and recover the spacer sleeve and bump stop from the top of the shock absorber (see illustration) .
Rear shock absorber upper mounting components 1 Locknut and mounting nut 2 Washer 3 Mounting rubber 4 Spacer 5 Mounting rubber 6 Bump stop 7 Dust cover 8 Shock absorber

Testing

8 Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage. Check the piston for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the body for signs of damage.
9 While holding it in an upright position, test the operation of the shock absorber by moving the piston through a full stroke, and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is necessary.
10 Inspect all other components for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew any that are suspect.

Refitting

11 If a new shock absorber is being fitted, gently compress and release the unit a few times, to prime it before fitting.
12 Slide the bump stop onto the shock absorber piston, then refit the dust cover and spacer.
13 Manoeuvre the unit into position so that the threaded top section passes through the hole at the top of the wheel arch. Raise the lower arm slightly if necessary, and engage the lower mounting loosely with the mounting point on the lower arm; fully insert the lower mounting bolt with its washer.
14 Working from above, fit the rubber bush and large washer, then screw on the upper mounting nut, and tighten by hand only.
15 Fit the new nut and washer (where fitted) to the lower mounting bolt, and tighten it by hand only.
16 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to 110 Nm (81 Ibf ft).
17 With the car resting on its wheels, push down on the wing, and then release it. Repeat this a few times, to settle the components.
18 Tighten the shock absorber upper mounting nut to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft), making sure the piston rod does not turn. Where fitted, fit a new locknut, and tighten it to 30 Nm (22 Ibf ft) while counter-holding the first nut.
19 Refit the luggage compartment trim panel.
20 Tighten the lower mounting nut to 55 Nm (41 Ibf ft) holding the bolt against rotation if necessary.
21 Refit the protective cover to the lower arm, and securely tighten its retaining screws.
Check rubber exhaust mountings
Before refitting the tyres, take a look at the tyre tread, there is a UK legal requirement to have a minimum of 1.6mm remaining tread depth. Also check sidewalls for any kerb damage
Finally, check the condition of the spare wheel / emergency tyre repair system
All OnDemand jobs for your car
£9.99
1 year subscription

Already purchased this job? Log into your account to view