Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
The spare wheel and tools are located in the luggage compartment, under the boot carpet. Lift the carpet, then lift out the tool/storage tray. Unscrew the spare wheel retainer anti-clockwise, and lift out the spare wheel.
The vehicle jack is stored in the tool tray just removed (Saloon models), which also contains the wheelbrace, towing eye, and hub cap removal tool. Rover 75 Tourer models have the jack and tools located around the spare wheel well.
Prise off the wheel trim or wheel centre cap from the punctured wheel, using the end of the wheelbrace or the hooked tool. Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel bolt by half a turn. Models with alloy wheels have one locking bolt per wheel, removed using the adaptor provided, after taking off the bolt cap.
Locate the domed jack head into the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. The jacking points are small plates on the base of the door sill, with a central recess for the jack head. Only use the jack on firm, level ground.
Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Remove the bolts and lift the punctured wheel clear.
Fit the spare wheel, refit the wheel bolts, and tighten moderately with the wheelbrace.
Lower the car to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim or centre cap, where possible.
On MG ZT models, the narrow space saver spare wheel should not be fitted on the front. With a front puncture, fit the spare on the rear, then fit the good rear tyre in place of the punctured front.